On first impression, Cape Town is surprisingly small. The city centre lies to the north of Table Mountain and east of Signal Hill, and the old innercity suburbs of Tamboerskloof, Gardens and Oranjezicht are all within walking distance of the centre. This area is collectively referred to as the City Bowl.
City Bowl is a good place to sniff out cheaper accommodation. Sea Point, on the Atlantic Ocean, west of the centre, is another good place to stay. Observatory is a nice neighbourhood popular with students. It's east of the centre and a bit out of the way, but is good for budget to mid-range accommodation. It's also not a bad place to chow down, if the shimmer and shine on the Waterfront gets a bit much.
In some ways the peninsula seems remarkably undeveloped, an impression exaggerated by the untamable fynbos -cloaked mountains that form its spine. The main white suburbs spread quite a distance to the northeast of the city and to the south, skirting the eastern flank of the mountains and running down to False Bay. Small towns cling to the coast on the Atlantic side, including exclusive Clifton and beautiful Camps Bay. Stretching along the N2 southeast of Table Mountain are the vast black townships of the Cape Flats: Langa, Guguletu, Crossroads and, the biggest community of all, Khayelitsha. The spectacular Cape of Good Hope is 70km (45mi) by road south of the city centre.
Cape Town is behind Johannesburg in terms of cheap airline tickets, though many international flights, both in and out of the city, are available. The South African landscape is geared toward travel by car. If you have the choice, car hire or purchase is recommended. The Cape Town train station is the departure point for all long-distance bus lines operating in South Africa.
Plentiful transport options exist throughout Cape Town. Taxis have unlimited range and are worth considering, especially at night, though they can get expensive. Cheaper Asian-style 'Rikki' transporters are a fun way to get around but don't go much further than the City Bowl area. Minibus taxis operating from the main train station are inexpensive but do not cover the entire city - you will need to ask the driver. Metro commuter trains, especially the Simon's Town line, are a good option for tourists, though service levels can fluctuate. An effective bus network covers the city, although many lines do not run after dark. The main bus station, the Golden Acre, is on Grand Parade.
podcast by Kondile Unathi, January 2008
Two miles' worth of clubs, music stores and boutique hotels: saunter down Cape Town's most cosmopolitan street. Read the full article ›
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