Lima: Getting there & around

Lima's Aeropuerto Internacional Jorge Chávez (tel: 595 0606; www.lap.com.pe) services most international and domestic flights. Dozens of non-Peruvian airlines fly into Lima from North, Central and South America and Europe. Peru is vast - it's worth considering domestic flights. LAN Peru and Taca offer domestic flights, as do Aero Condor Perú, Star Perú and Tans Perú. There's a departure tax (cash only, payable in Peruvian soles or US dollars) of about US$28.00 on international flights and around US$6.00 on domestic flights.

The airport is best served by taxi. Buses ply the route south along Alfonso Ugarte for a pittance but are not recommended if you have a lot of luggage. From Lima, flagging a taxi on the street and bargaining can be cheap. There are also hotel buses but these require advance booking and are usually not cheap.

Buses are slow, but they do service Lima from Bolivia, Chile and Ecuador. You'll need to produce your passport at several checkpoints along the way. Interprovincial buses cover long-distance trips. From Lima, there are buses going to all major cities and towns, though the level of comfort and service varies. Armed robberies on night buses are not unheard of, so travel on a day bus (or fly) if you have the option.

You can access Lima's port of Callao by ocean liner and cheaper freight vessels. However, departures are infrequent and often expensive. If you crave adventure, travel by riverboat from Colombia or the mouth of the Amazon in Brazil to Iquitos. Be warned though, the journey is not easy and conditions are far from luxurious.

Lima is the starting point for the Ferrocarril Central Andino, the highest railway in the world. The breathtaking trip to Huancayo is a must for train buffs, but services usually run only during summer holidays.

The local buses are called micros and combis (minibuses or vans). Although cheap, they're almost always crowded beyond bursting point and belongings can go 'missing'. When getting off a bus, call baja (go down) or a la esquina (at the corner). Local buses service all parts of Lima, including Miraflores and Barranco. Combi routes are usually not numbered, so listen for the conductor to yell out the names of the major streets and destinations.

There are taxis everywhere in Lima, though most of them are unofficial. Official registered taxis, which can be called by phone or picked up at taxi stands outside hotels and shopping malls, are considered the safest mode of transport. You can flag down a cab in the street but this is risky. Always settle on a price before you get in. Meters are not used.