Peru: Getting there & around

Getting There

• bus

  From Bolivia, Peru is usually reached overland via Lake Titicaca. From Brazil, you can travel overland to Peru via Iñapari.

  On the Pan-American Hwy, the major crossing point is between Arica, Chile, and Tacna on Peru's south coast. Long-distance buses to Tacna depart from Lima, Arequipa and Puno. Colectivo (shared) taxis are the fastest means of travel.

  It's easiest to travel between Peru and Columbia via Ecuador. This long-haul trip is best done in stages. The usual way to get to/from Ecuador is along the Pan-American Hwy via Tumbes. Another route is via La Tina to Loja in Ecuador. A third route is via Jaén. Cifa runs buses between Tumbes in Peru and Machala or Guayaquil in Ecuador. Transportes Loja runs buses between Piura in Peru and Machala or Loja in Ecuador. Ormeño has weekly through buses between Lima and Quito, Ecuador.

  Scores of overseas companies offer organized tours of Peru. Usually, groups travel with knowledgeable guides, but you will pay a great deal extra for this privilege.

• train

  Between Tacna, Peru, and Arica, Chile, it's possible to make the crossing, albeit much more slowly, by train; border formalities are done at the respective stations.

• air

  In suburban Callao, Lima's Aeropuerto Internacional Jorge Chávez is a major South American hub, serviced by many flights from North, Central and South America, and a few direct flights from Europe. Travelers from other continents normally change planes in the US or in a South American city. At the time of research, international flights to and from the Peruvian regional airports in Cuzco and Iquitos were suspended.

  Travel from Africa is normally via the US or connecting through another South American country such as Colombia or Bolivia. Flights from Asia mostly connect via the US. From Australia and New Zealand, flights are usually via the US or a South American gateway, such as Santiago (Chile). Canadians must typically take a connecting flight to a gateway US city. From continental Europe, there are direct flights mainly from Amsterdam and Madrid, but European travelers may find it cheaper to connect with the US, the Caribbean or Colombia. Lima is well connected to many South American capital cities. However, flights from Latin American countries are subject to high taxes, and good deals aren't often available. Most flights from the UK or Ireland connect through gateway cities in continental Europe, the US or Canada. From the US, there are direct flights to Lima from Atlanta, Dallas-Fort Worth, Houston, Los Angeles, Miami and New York.

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Getting Around

• bus

  Buses are the normal form of transport for most Peruvians and travelers. Fares are relatively cheap. Services are frequent on the major long-distance routes, but buses are of varying quality. Less-traveled and remote routes are often served by older, more uncomfortable vehicles. Avoid seats at the back of the bus - the ride is bumpier. There are scores of competing bus companies, and no single company covers the entire country. Buses rarely arrive or depart on time, so the trip times quoted by operators are best-case scenarios. Local and long-distance buses can be a risk to your personal safety; fatal accidents are not unusual in Peru. Avoid overnight buses, on which assaults are more likely to occur.

  Local buses are slow and crowded, but startlingly cheap. A faster, more hair-raising alternative are the privately owned micros or combis , minibuses and minivans respectively. They have colorful stickers along the outside panels and destination placards in the front windows. Flag one down or get off anywhere on the route. A conductor usually leans out of the vehicle, shouting out destinations. Squeeze into any available seat, or be prepared to stand up or crouch down. The conductor will collect the fare, or you can pay when getting off.

• boat

  There's no passenger service along the Peruvian coast. In the Andean highlands, there are boat services on Lake Titicaca. Small motorized vessels take passengers from the port in Puno to various islands on the lake, while hydrofoils and catamarans zip over to Bolivia. In Peru's Amazon Basin, boat travel is of major importance. Larger vessels ply the wider rivers; dugout canoes with outboard engines act as water taxis on smaller rivers. In some places, modern aluminum launches are used.

  The classic way to travel down the Amazon is while swinging in a hammock aboard a banana boat. You can travel from Pucallpa or Yurimaguas to Iquitos and on into Brazil this way. The captain has to clear documents with the capitanía (harbor master's office) on the day of departure. Bring your own hammock, or rent a cabin for the journey. Facilities are basic but adequate, and there's usually a pump shower on board. Basic food is usually included in the price.

• car

  It's a long way to most destinations from Lima, so it's better to take a bus or flight and rent a car once you arrive. Given the hazards of driving, consider catching a taxi instead. At roadside checkpoints, where the police or military conduct meticulous document checks, you'll occasionally see Peruvian drivers slipping an officer some money to smooth things along. The idea here is not to offer an (illegal) bribe, but simply a 'gift' so that you can get on your way. If you are involved in an accident that results in injury, know that drivers are routinely imprisoned for several days, or even weeks, until innocence has been established. Major car-rental companies have offices in Lima, and in a few other large cities.

• taxi

  Taxis are everywhere. Private cars that have a small taxi sticker in the windshield aren't regulated. Safer, regulated taxis usually have a lit company number on the roof. Calling for a taxi is more expensive than flagging one down, but they are more reliable. Solo women travelers should stick to regulated taxis, especially at night. Always ask the fare in advance, as there are no meters. It's acceptable to haggle; try to find out what the going rate is beforehand, especially for long trips. Tipping is not the norm.

  Hiring a private taxi for long-distance trips costs less than renting a car. Not all taxi drivers will agree to drive long distances, but if one does, you should check their credentials and vehicle before hiring. Colectivo (shared) taxis for longer trips wait on busy corners and at major roundabouts, often by a signposted stand.

• bicycle

  The major drawback to cycling in Peru is motorists. On narrow, two-lane highways, drivers can be a serious hazard to cyclists. Cycling is more enjoyable, and safer, off paved roads. Mountain bikes are recommended as road bikes won't stand up to the rough conditions. Reasonably priced rentals (mostly mountain bikes) are available in popular tourist destinations, including Cuzco, Arequipa, Huaraz and Huancayo. They are rented to travelers for local excursions, not to make trips all over the country. For long-distance touring, BYO bike. Airline policies on carrying bicycles vary, so shop around. Domestic airlines may charge up to US$60.00 extra per flight, and that's if they even allow a checked bike.

• train

  The privatized rail system, PeruRail, has daily services between Cuzco and Aguas Calientes, aka Machu Picchu Pueblo, and services between Cuzco and Puno on the shores of Lake Titicaca three times a week. Passenger services between Puno and Arequipa have been suspended indefinitely, but will run as a charter for groups. Train buffs won't want to miss the lovely Ferrocarril Central Andino, which reaches a head-spinning altitude of 4829m (15,843ft). It usually runs between Lima and Huancayo weekly from mid-April through October. In Huancayo, cheaper trains to Huancavelica leave daily from a different station. Another charmingly historic railway makes inexpensive daily runs between Tacna on Peru's south coast and Arica, Chile.

• air

  Many domestic airlines have sprung up recently, but not all have proven to be long lived. At the time of research, the following had the most extensive services: Aero Condor Perú, LAN, LC Busre, Star Perú and TACA.

  Be at the airport at least an hour before your flight departs (at least 90 minutes earlier in Cuzco, and two hours in Lima) - your flight may be overbooked; baggage handling and check-in procedures tend to be chaotic; and it's not unknown for flights to leave before their official departure time. Also be aware that flights are frequently late.

  Two one-way tickets typically cost the same as a round-trip ticket. Ensure that flight reservations are confirmed and reconfirmed 72 and 24 hours in advance; airlines are notorious for bumping passengers off flights. Flights are changed or canceled with surprising frequency, so it's worth calling the airline just before leaving for the airport.

• road

  Hitchhiking is never entirely safe in any country in the world and is not recommended. Travelers who decide to hitch should understand that they are taking a serious risk - always travel in pairs and let someone know where you are planning to go. In Peru, it's not very practical, as there are few private cars, buses are cheap and trucks are often used as paid public transport in remote areas.

• motorcycle

  Renting a motorcycle is an option mainly in jungle towns, where you can go for short runs around town or the surrounding areas, but not much further.

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