A Top Day in Wellington

Wellingtonians are obsessed with good coffee and top-quality beer. If you spend any length of time here at all, your days will often start with a shot of the former to help you recover from too much of the latter. I usually kick things off with a double espresso at Fidel's, a Wellington cafe institution, or the quasi-industrial Cafe L'Affare on College St. To get some perspective on the day ahead, I take a bus up to the Mt Victoria lookout, or ride the rattly Cable Car up to the hilltop Botanic Gardens. While I'm at this altitude, I duck into the predator-free Karori Wildlife Sanctuary to catch a glimpse of NZ's iconic lizard, the tuatara. Walking back into the city via historic Thorndon gives me a postcard-worthy snapshot of Wellington's vernacular architecture - elaborate, free-standing Victorian weatherboard townhouses à la San Francisco, built to withstand earthquakes. New Zealand isn't called 'The Shaky Isles' for nothing! After lunch at a cool Cuba St eatery (Ernesto is one of the best, or Logan-Brown if you're flush with cash), I immerse myself in all things Kiwi at the fabulous Te Papa, New Zealand's national museum. Afterwards it's the Museum of Wellington City & Sea, which explores the undeniable connection between Wellington and the ocean. It's almost time for a beer! I trundle back to Cuba St to flirt with the staff at Matterhorn, before an authentic Maori feast at Kai in the City, a low-key city-fringe eatery that specialises in indigenous food. The Wellington night stretches ahead - it's not windy or raining for once, so I think an evening bar-hopping along Courtenay Pl awaits. Perhaps some live music, a midnight snack at a late-closing cafe, a movie at the restored Embassy Theatre... maybe all three!

Author: Charles Rawlings-Way

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