Amsterdam: Getting there & around

Orientation

Amsterdam's centre is enjoyably small-scale, though finding your way around the canal belt can be confusing. The old city is contained within the ring of concentric canals dating from the 17th century that form the crescent-shaped canal belt bordered by the Singelgracht. Think of it as half a bicycle wheel: the medieval city around Centraal Station is the hub, and several main roads, minor canals and the Amstel River function as spokes.

Dam Square, five minutes' walk south of the station, is the centre of town, but there are several other happening 'centres', all within walking distance: Leidseplein, with much of the city's cultural life and nightlife, Rembrandtplein (nightlife), Spui ('intellectual' life) and Museumplein (culture) are just some of the focal points that make the city a joy to explore on foot or by bicycle.

Centraal Station, the central train and bus station, lies on the south bank of the IJ. The airport at Schiphol is 18km (11mi) southwest of the city centre.

Getting There

• air

  Many of the world's airlines fly directly to Amsterdam, but it might be cheaper for you to fly to a nearby city such as London and get to Amsterdam by bus or train. Many airlines will offer you a free side trip within Europe, so ask around and see what offers are available. Departure tax is included in the price of your ticket. Amsterdam's Schiphol International airport is 18km (11mi) southwest of the city centre. An inexpensive train service to Centraal Station leaves every 15 minutes, taking 15-20 minutes. The more expensive KLM bus connects the airport with 15 or so city hotels every half hour. If you've got money to burn, a taxi takes 20-45 minutes.

• road

  Freeways link Amsterdam to The Hague, Rotterdam and Amersfort - it's about a six-hour drive from Paris to Amsterdam. Standard European road rules apply.

• rail

  Amsterdam's main train station is Centraal, which has regular and efficient connections throughout the country and to all neighbouring countries. There are train-ferry services to Britain, or you can catch the Eurostar train through the Chunnel. Eurail passes are valid in The Netherlands. Ferries also run between Amsterdam and Norway.

• riding

  The Netherlands are very amenable to cycling - this is one of the flattest places in the world, and there are dedicated bike paths throughout the country. Bikes are allowed on trains for a nominal charge and on ferries for very little if any charge.

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Getting Around

• road

  Parking problems, Byzantine one-way systems, narrow canalside streets and thieves mean you're better off parking your car outside the city and riding in on public transport. Amsterdam taxis are among the most expensive in Europe and drivers are rude - though it's no wonder when you consider the conditions under which they drive. In theory you're not supposed to hail cabs on the street, but in practice no-one seems to mind.

• riding

  Amsterdam has 550,000 bicycles and this is an ideal way to get around, although you need to get used to the idea of having your bike stolen. If you're going to be around for a while, consider buying a secondhand bike and make sure you buy a lock (or two) as well.

• water

  All the bicycle traffic means there's not much call for mass river transport - the closest you'll get are the overpriced water taxis. A free ferry crosses to Amsterdam North from near Centraal Station, and a variety of canal boats run organised tours.

• Disabled Travellers

  Travellers with a mobility problem will find Amsterdam only moderately equipped to meet their needs. A large number of government offices and museums have lifts and/or ramps. Many hotels, however, are in old buildings with steep stairs and no lifts; restaurants tend to be on ground floors, though 'ground' sometimes includes a few steps. The metro stations have lifts, many trains have wheelchair access, and most train stations and public buildings have toilets for the disabled.

  People with a disability get discounts on public transport and, with some limitations, can park in the city free of charge. Train timetables are published in Braille. Residents can make use of the stadsmobiel (citymobile), which is a fabulous taxi service for people with limited mobility, but foreigners have to use one of the commercial wheelchair-taxi services; Garskamp (tel: 633 39 43) or Taxi Services Connexxion (tel: 606 22 00). Ring a couple of days in advance to ensure a booking at a time that suits you.

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