Mozambique: Getting there & around

Linhas Aéreas de Moçambique (LAM), TAP Air Portugal and Kenya Airways fly into Maputo. But if you're coming from Europe or a distant part of Africa, the cheapest option is often to fly to Johannesburg (South Africa) and fly or take the bus from there to Maputo. LAM and South African Airways fly between Jo'burg and Maputo, while Pelican Air flies between Jo'burg and Vilankulo with connections on to the Bazaruto Archipelago. If you're coming from East Africa, LAM flies from Dar es Salaam to Pemba (convenient for northern Mozambique, and avoiding the adventurous land border crossing) and Kenya Airways flies from Nairobi to Maputo. The airport departure tax for international flights is US$20.00 .

The best land crossings are over the South African border, with several 'luxury' bus lines between Johannesburg and Maputo. More adventurous are the new crossings (4WD only, no public transport) using the Giriyondo or Pafuri border posts in South Africa's Kruger National Park.

Minibuses run between Maputo and towns in Swaziland, crossing the borders at Namaacha, and at Goba, Mozambique. In the far north, you can cross between Mozambique and Tanzania at Namiranga on a combination of bad roads and dugout canoe (or a car ferry). From Malawi, take the Ilala ferry across the lake to Metangula or Cobue, or go via chapa over one of the many land borders. There's also daily public transport across Casacatiza (the main border with Zambia), between Tete and Harare (Zimbabwe), and between Chimoio and Mutare (also in Zimbabwe).

Bus and air are the best ways to get around Mozambique. Buses run between major towns at least daily, usually with both 'express' and stopping services. Away from main routes, you'll need to use use converted passenger trucks called chapa-cems (chapas) to get around. LAM has frequent flights connecting Maputo with Vilankulo, Beira, Nampula, Pemba and other major destinations, plus flights connecting most major cities with each other. Private charter airlines will take you to the Quirimbas archipelago, or almost anywhere else you like.

If you're driving your own vehicle in Mozambique, the police have a reputation for finding problems both trivial and imagined with vehicles, for which large 'fines' are imposed. If you're polite, have your vehicle and papers in order and obey all the road rules (especially speed limits, which are radar enforced), you stand less chance of being hassled. Cars can be hired in Maputo, Beira and Nampula, where several major and a few local agencies have depots; elsewhere you can arrange things informally with your hotel.