Maldives: Getting there & around

Regular flights connect the Maldives to Colombo (Sri Lanka), Thrivandrum (southwest India), Dubai (United Arab Emirates), and Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia), and there are numerous charter flights from European centres in the peak season. Malé International Airport is the only international gateway; departure tax is US$12.00 and is included in the ticket price. There are regular cargo ships, but they don't usually take passengers. The Maldives is not popular with private yachts because the reefs are so hazardous and cruising permits are restrictive and expensive.

Tourism is strictly regulated, and independent travel is discouraged because it is seen as disruptive to traditional island communities. Those wanting to see the Maldivian way of life can visit Malé, the intriguing capital city, and make daytime visits to island communities close to resort islands. It's not impossible to visit the outer islands, but it's difficult enough to deter all but the most dedicated and determined. An Inter Atoll Travel Permit is required to visit islands outside the tourist zone, and the Ministry of Atolls Administration will only issue them to those whose visit is sponsored by a resident of the island concerned. Even charities working in the country after the 2004 tsunami were unable to get around this rule.

Air Maldives, the small national airline, has regular and very scenic flights to the four air strips in the outer atolls, while seaplane resort transfers are operated by Maldivian Air Taxi. Helicopters and seaplanes are used to transfer guests to some of the remoter resorts. The main form of local transport is the dhoni , a traditional all-purpose vessel now usually powered by a diesel engine. Larger boats called vedis are used for longer trips to outer atolls. Safari cruises in modified, live-aboard dhonis are increasingly popular, especially with dive groups who want to reach more remote sites. Most safari trips cruise around the tourist zone, but it is possible to arrange longer trips to the outer atolls - the operator will have to obtain the necessary permits. Most islands are so small that transport is not a problem, but there are taxis, motorcycles and bicycles in the capital.