Malaysia is divided into two regions - Peninsular Malaysia and East Malaysia - with Kuala Lumpur in Selangor province near the west coast of the peninsula. The traditional heart of the city is Merdeka Square, easily spotted because of the 95m (312ft) flag pole - reputedly the world's tallest. KL is a relatively easy city to navigate, with major north-south thoroughfares assisting in the speedy movement of people. At peak hour, however, the city resembles most other industrialised cities in the world, and the air - already dripping with humidity - gets thick with smog. Travelling around the city on foot can be a frustrating experience. New multi-lane highways and overhead bridges divide the city with little thought to pedestrian traffic.
Southeast of Merdeka Square, the banking district merges into hectic Chinatown, where travellers can find a wealth of accommodation and restaurant options. Due south of the square, past the main post office, is the historic KL train station, while further west is the 'green belt', where you'll find the Lake Gardens, National Museum and Monument and the Malaysian Parliament.
Southeast of the old KL station is KL Sentral (Central Station), the new hub of Malaysia's national railway system. Puduraya bus station is on the eastern edge of Chinatown. The international airport, KLIA, is located some 75km (47mi) south of the city centre.
Puduraya is between Chinatown and the Golden Triangle, KL's premier business, shopping and entertainment district. Crowded with mid-range and luxury hotels, the Golden Triangle has long since expanded from its original boundaries of Jln Imbi, Jln Raja Chulan and Jln Sultan Ismail and now stretches north to the Kuala Lumpur City Centre (KLCC) development anchored by the Petronas Towers.
Kuala Lumpur International Airport, in all its monolithic glory, will be your welcome to the city if you fly in from overseas. These days Subang, the old airport, is used only for domestic runs. You can get to Singapore, Thailand and to destinations within Malaysia by train and bus.
The colossal new Kuala Lumpur International Airport (KLIA) is 75km (47mi) south of the city centre at Sepang. Two terminals are linked by a shuttle service and host all international arrivals and departures. Nearby is also the Low Cost Carrier Terminal (LCC-T) the base for budget airline Air Asia. From KLIA, the speedy KLIA Ekspres train will whisk you to KL Sentral (Central Station) downtown in 28 minutes. Taxis from the airport operate on a fixed-price coupon system and coupons are available in the arrival hall.
KL's main Puduraya bus station is just east of Chinatown. Buses from Puduraya go all over Peninsular Malaysia, including the east coast, and to Singapore and Thailand. Buses also run out of KL Sentral.
KL Sentral (Central Station) is the hub of Malaysia's national railway system, the privatised Keretapi Tanah Melayu (KTM). Daily long-distance services depart from KL Sentral to Butterworth, Wakaf Bharu (for Kota Bharu), Johor Bahru, Thailand and Singapore. The KTM information office in the main hall can advise on schedules.
The public transport system within KL is speedy, comfortable and uncomplicated. The city has made significant improvements to expressways and the rail network to reduce traffic congestion. While buses and city trains move huge numbers of people, travellers will probably find most joy with the fast and frequent Light Rail (LRT) and monorail.
Taxis are a cheap and useful way to get around. Drivers are sometimes unwilling to use the meters - check with locals about going rates or simply get out and hail another cab. Once on your way, KL's confusing one-way systems may make you feel like you're going in circles and wonder whether the driver is ripping you off. Hold your tongue; the shortest distance between two points in KL is rarely a straight line.
Commuter trains leave from KL Sentral and mostly service suburbs seldom visited by travellers. Trains are not much good for getting to tourist sites, but they may be useful for day trips to Selangor and Negeri Sembilan states.
For the mobility impaired, KL can be a nightmare. There are often no footpaths, kerbs are very high, construction sites are everywhere, and crossings are few and far between. On the upside, the modern urban rail lines in KL are at least reasonably accessible, and both Malaysia Airlines and KTM (the national rail service) offer 50% discounts on travel for disabled travellers.
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