A Top Day in Ohrid

I'm staying at the Vila Sveta Sofija, hence I'm in no rush to get out of the comfy bed and I'm certainly not going anywhere until after breakfast. I order a traditional Macedonian dish of eggs scrambled with green peppers. The staff have taken it upon themselves to improve my Macedonian, so I stumble my way through a few phrases before being let out the door.

It's a beautiful winter's day and this morning I'm going for a good long walk along the lakeside towards Tito's old residence, where I find a quiet spot in the sun to take in the views and read my book.

When I start getting hungry I head back to the main strip, Car Samoil, and grab a cheap and filling burek (cheese, spinach, potato or meat in filo pastry) on the roadside. While struggling to wipe the grease off my fingers I bump into a friend and he drags me into swanky Mezzoforte for a coffee.

While Ohrid is all about relaxing, the caffeine has given me a bit of a kick, so I head uphill to Sveta Bogorodica and lose myself amid the frescoes until closing time. While I'm up here I decide to walk up past the fortress and then down through the park past the big new cathedral to the stunning headland where the adorable little church of Sveti Jovan sits proudly. The view is brilliant, with the snow-covered mountains reflected in the mirrored surface of the lake.

Before I know it the sun's going down and the snow is turning shades of pink and peach, lighting up the water with a surreal golden glow. Despite the chill I wait for the sun to disappear completely before heading back to the hotel for a quick nap.

I'm meeting up with friends at Antiko restaurant later on, before heading to the Duck Café to watch a band, so a bit of beauty sleep won't go astray. In the wee small hours we end up at the super-cool Jazz Inn. Suddenly I'm thankful that my bed is only a short stumble away.

Author: Peter Dragicevich

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