Laos: Getting there & around

It's possible to enter Laos by land or air from Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam or China. Land borders are often remote and the travelling can be tough either side, but the actual frontier crossing is usually pretty simple. The only real prerequisites for entering Laos are a passport with six months' validity and a visa if you are crossing at one of the few borders where you can't get a visa on arrival, such as the Cambodian border at Voen Kham.

Flying into Laos is refreshing in that you don't need to shop around - only a few airlines service Laos and prices don't vary much.

There are three international airports in Laos. Wattay International Airport (tel: 021 512165) in Vientiane; Luang Prabang International Airport (tel: 071 212856) and Pakse International Airport (tel: 031 212844). Lao Airlines is the national carrier and monopolises the majority of flights in and out of the country, though many code-share with airlines such as Thai Airways, China Eastern Airlines and Vietnam Airlines. The international departure tax can be paid in kip, baht or US dollars.

Most land crossings involve changing transport at the border, even when you've paid for a 'direct' bus. Five of the crossings on the western border with Thailand involve quick boat trips across the Mekong. Generally Laos issues 30-day tourist visas at crossings that are open to foreigners.

It's possible to bring your own vehicle into Laos from Thailand, Vietnam and Cambodia, with the right paperwork, and Lao customs don't object to visitors bringing bicycles into the country.

Lao Airlines is the only airline in Laos. It handles all domestic flights, with Vientiane as the main hub. Its schedules are increasingly reliable but flights still get cancelled semi-regularly. During the holiday season it's best to book ahead. At other times, when flights are more likely to be cancelled, confirm a day or two before.

Stunning roads and light, relatively slow traffic make Laos arguably the best country for cycling in Southeast Asia. Simple single-speed bikes can be hired cheaply in most places that see a decent number of tourists. Mountain bikes can also be hired in a few places, including Luang Nam Tha, Vientiane and Vang Vieng.

There are more than 4600km (2860mi) of navigable rivers in Laos; they are its traditional highways and byways. Sealed roads and buses, however, mean that the days of mass river transport are waning. But it's still worth doing at least one river excursion while in Laos. The most popular river trip - the slow boat between Huay Xai and Luang Prabang - is still a daily event and relatively cheap for the two-day journey.

Every river in the country has some boat traffic and chartering a boat is easy enough. For shorter trips, it's usually best to hire a river taxi. There are many different types depending on the distance you need to cover.

Long-distance public transport in Laos is either by bus or sǎwngthǎew (converted pick-ups or trucks with benches down either side). Destinations that were all but inaccessible by bus a few years ago now see regular services. Private operators have established services on some busier routes - particularly along Rte 13 and on international routes - offering faster and more-luxurious air-con buses, known as VIP buses, which are also pretty good value. That's not to say local buses have disappeared completely. Far from it. You can still do the main routes by local bus, and on most journeys off Rte 13 you won't have any option.