A Top Day in Nagoya

Nagoya is an industrial powerhouse - it anchors a region that would rank among the world's top 10 economies if considered independently - and that means that a day here is bound to be busy.

I prefer to start out the day quietly, at Atsuta Jingu. Hidden among 1000-year-old cypress trees, it's one of the most sacred shrines in all of Japan's native Shintō religion. It's said to house a sacred sword, one of the three regalia that were, according to legend, handed down to the imperial family by the sun goddess Amaterasu Ōmikami.

I love strolling Nagoya-jō, a full-scale reproduction of the early 17th century castle built by shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu. The interior houses a worthy historical museum, and there's always something going on in the castle grounds: from flower shows to tea ceremonies or sumo tournaments.

With all that tradition out of the way, I might spend the afternoon checking out the factories of one of the industrial giants that make this region famous: Toyota, Noritake and even Asahi Beer all have a large presence here. Only-in-Japan offerings include a miso factory or workshops for Arimatsu shibori (tie-dye) work.

In the afternoon, Nagoya lives to shop, as you'll see in the dozen-plus department stores around the Meieki district (around Nagoya Station) or across the town centre in Sakae. My first stop is the International Design Centre Nagoya, with a design museum and cool shops. Intimate and sprawling Ōsu Kannon district brims with shops selling vintage clothing (including kimono), and the latest in electronics and music.

Night time is for food, drink and music. My favourite Nagoya speciality is miso-nikomi udon (udon noodles in miso broth), but I'm a fan of other local dishes too: kōchin chicken, miso-katsu (breaded, fried pork cutlet with miso sauce), and barbecued eel served over rice. After dinner, I love bopping around Sakae, inside and among the hundreds of bars, music and dance clubs, spread out like a neon maze - horizontal, vertical and every other which way.

Author: Andrew Bender

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