Kyoto: Itineraries

The walk described here is a great way to see some of the most important temples in Kyoto, along with some wonderful natural scenery. Start at Keage Station, walk downhill, cross the pedestrian overpass, head back uphill and go through the tunnel under the old funicular tracks. This leads to a narrow street that winds towards Konchi-in, famous for its rock garden, and passes by maple trees that are stunning in autumn.

Just past Konchi-in, take a right on the main road and walk up through the gate into Nanzen-ji. Walking up through the grounds of Nanzen-ji, you'll first see the impressive San-mon gate on your left. From here, continue east, up the slope. You'll soon see the brick Sōsui aqueduct on your right, cross under this, take a quick left and walk up the hill towards the mountains. You'll come first to the lovely Kōtoku-an subtemple. Beyond this, the trail enters the woods. Follow it up to the secluded Nanzen-ji Oku-no-in, a tiny shrine built around a waterfall. It's one of Kyoto's most entrancing spots. After walking through the vast grounds, return the way you came in, exiting on the north side of Nanzen-ji, following the road through the gate. The road bears right and passes the Nomura Museum.

You'll soon come to Eikan-dō, a large temple famous for its artworks and pagoda. At the corner just beyond Eikandō, there's a sign in English and Japanese pointing up the hill (right) to the Tetsugaku- no-michi (Path of Philosophy). If you are hungry at this point, take a short detour north to Hinode, a fine noodle restaurant with an English menu (there's no English sign, however, it's about 100m (330ft) north of the corner before a bank of vending machines). Otherwise, head east up the hill and check out Kumanonyakuōji-jinja, before starting up the Tetsugaku-no-michi, which is the pedestrian path that heads north along the canal.

About 50m (164ft) up the path you'll see a wooden bridge on your right. This leads to the teahouse Kanō Shōjuan. From here, it's a straight shot up the tree-lined canal for about 800m (2625ft) until you reach a small sign in English and Japanese pointing up the hill to Hōnen-in. Follow the sign up the hill, take a left at the top, walk past a small park and you'll see the entrance to the temple on your right. You'll soon reach the picturesque thatched gate of Hōnen-in, which is one of Kyoto's loveliest sights, particularly when framed by blazing maple leaves in autumn.

After checking out the temple (admission free), exit via the thatched gate and take a quick right downhill. From here, follow the side streets north to Ginkaku-ji. Then head down the souvenir arcade and follow Ginkaku-ji-Michi, along the canal, down to Shirakawa-dōri and the Ginkaku-ji-Michi bus stop.