The bustling central district of Tenjin is the perfect place to start the day with a hearty urban Japanese breakfast - a double espresso and a pastry at one of the cafes surrounding the IMS building. Now I'm ready to dodge the salarymen on bicycles as I head for the old Hakata District across the river Naka-gawa. I'm off to Kushida-jinja, a peaceful haven in the middle of the swirling urban scene. The 8th-century shrine is home to the several brightly decorated Kazariyama floats which fill the streets each July at festival time. Then it's a short walk over to Canal City for lunch. At Ramen Stadium, on the 5th floor of this ultra-modern shopping complex, I'll have a choice of distinctive noodle dishes from Hokkaido and Honshu, along with Kyūshū's gold standard, local Hakata-style ramen. While I'm at it, I'll tuck in a plate of bite-sized gyoza, traditionally made small so the dainty ladies of the time wouldn't have to open their mouths too wide to eat them. An after-lunch stroll along the river walk brings me to the Asian Art Museum's 8th floor to check out the always-current exhibit of local Fukuoka artists. On the way out, I'll take in the panoramic city views from the museum's 7th floor cafe. Next it's back to the river in time to meet a friend at Fukuoka's famous yatai (food stalls), a cluster of riverside eateries-on-wheels where we'll feast on grilled fish, yakitori (grilled savouries) and beer. To cap off the evening, we'll stroll around the happening Daimyo district's maze of narrow lanes and cosy pubs, before checking out the city lights from the outdoor terrace at Bar Oscar, named for jazz luminary Oscar Peterson.
Author: Michael ClarkAdvertisement
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