Delhi: Getting there & around

Orientation

Delhi stands at the western end of the Gangetic Plain, flanked by the states of Uttar Pradesh and Haryana. Travellers to Delhi get two cities for the price of one. 'Old' Delhi, the capital of Islamic India between the mid-17th and late 19th centuries, is full of legacies of its Mughal past, including the massive Red Fort and the majestic Jama Masjid. It's a lively area of colourful bazaars, narrow streets and barely controlled chaos. In contrast, New Delhi, the imperial city created during the British Raj, is composed of spacious, tree-lined avenues and imposing government buildings, and has a sense of order.

The city is expansive but easy to navigate. The hub of New Delhi is Connaught Place, where you'll find many airline offices, travel agents, restaurants and banks. 'Old' Delhi is a couple of kilometres (about a mile) north, and its main thoroughfare is Chandni Chowk. The two main centres for accommodation are Paharganj (mainly budget), near New Delhi Railway Station, and the area in and around Connaught Place (budget, mid-range and top end). There are a number of cinemas,performing arts centres and bars/nightclubs scattered throughout Delhi. The main bus station, the Inter State Bus Terminal, is at Kashmiri Gate, north of the 'Old' Delhi Train Station.

Getting There

Delhi is India's flight centre, with international and domestic flights readily available in a range of costs and comforts plus travel agents queuing up to negotiate a deal. Both domestic and international terminals for the Indira Gandhi International Airport are quite a way out of town - domestic 7km (4.5mi) from the city and international 11km (6mi) - so be prepared for the taxi driver ambush upon arrival. The Inter State Bus Terminal at Kashmiri Gate, north of the 'Old' Delhi Train Station, has long distance trips south to Rajasthan and north to Chandigarh, and to the hill stations of Himachal Pradesh. The New Delhi Train Station is as user friendly as such a place can be in India, if you ignore the touts who have all sorts of stories aimed at parting tourists with their money. From here you can organise long-distance trips east across the Ganges Plain to Kolkata, and south to Mumbai (Bombay) via Agra.

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Getting Around

Delhi's bus system is not for the faint hearted, or indeed for those who need to get somewhere on time. The network covers most of the city and is dirt cheap, but is also overcrowded and ramshackle - adventure travel you might say. There are plenty of metered yellow-and-black taxis, but don't expect the existence of a meter to mean they will be used. Learn to negotiate before you get going. Auto-rickshaws are generally speedy over short distances and less expensive - cycle rickshaws are somewhat romantic, but harder to find now they have been removed from the modern parts of the city. Motorcycle rickshaws are a better bet during busy hours. They have set courses and prices and can muscle their way through traffic as well. Trying to cycle through Delhi streets would be a foolish choice for a traveller. Try the metro instead - check out www.delhimetrorail.com for more details.

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