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Icelanders are obsessed with design and architecture. The capital is awash with futuristic buildings made from abstract combinations of concrete, glass, steel and lava, juxtaposed against the historic houses of the old town, which were built from timber washed up on the shores of Iceland from as far away as Siberia and South America. Most of these architectural heirlooms are clad in sheets of corrugated tin to protect them from the elements and many date back to the early 19th century when Reykjavík was a tiny fishing village playing second fiddle to the then metropolis at nearby Eyrarbakki.
You don't have to be an architecture buff to appreciate Reykjavík's landmark buildings - the following walking tour will guide you around some of the capital's most impressive and unusual houses and monuments. It should take around an hour to complete. The logical starting point for any tour of Reykjavík is Austurvöllur, where the first settler, Ingólfur Arnarson, had his hayfields. The statue in the centre of the grassy square is of Icelandic nationalist Jón Sigurðsson, who led the campaign for Icelandic independence. The old stone building with the stylish glass and stone annex is the Alþingi, home to the Icelandic parliament - the old part dates from 1881 while the new part was completed in 2002. Next door, the wooden Dómkirkja cathedral dates back to 1847, and across the square is the striking Art Deco Hótel Björg, built in 1930.
From here, stroll north onto Austurstræti to the stone square at Ingólfstorg, which is surrounded by old wooden houses and has fountains and a steam vent releasing pent up energy from below the ground. Next, head northeast along Naustin and Tryggvagata to the ultramodern Hafnarhúsið, a fantastic creation of rusted steel, concrete and glass that now houses part of the Reykjavík Art Museum. Loop around the block along Vesturgata, which is lined with historic wooden houses, including Fálkahús at Hafnarstræti 1, where Icelandic falcons were once stored before being shipped to Europe. Next, head south down Aðalstræti to the site of Ingólfur Arnarson's original farm. The bar Vidalin at Aðalstræti 10 is housed in the oldest building in Reykjavík.
A Top Day in Reykjavik
I start the day with an early morning stroll along the harbour. Assuming the fog hasn't engulfed the city, I'll have breathtaking views of the mountains above the deep blue sea - a site that immediately reconnects me to the magic of Iceland. I end my stroll at Kòlaportið Flea Market, where I have a good browse through antiques, records and vintage clothes before the crowds descend. Once I find that rare Megas LP, I'm ready for pastries and fresh-brewed coffee at Sandholt, the city's most charming pâtisserie - and one of its most renowned (open since 1920).
Three cups of java give me the boost I need, and I'm off in a hurry to Reykjavìk's cultural gems. The first stop is the Museum of Photography, where I catch the latest Icelandic exhibition. Nearby, the Hafnarhùsiðmuseum often hosts some of the city's best contemporary exhibits. Perhaps as impressive as the art (depending on what's showing), is the sleek interior of the gallery, set in former warehouses of the port.
It's now , and lunch is overdue, so I make my way to the excellent but low-key vegetarian restaurant Café Garðurinn, where the friendly staff serves up tasty, healthy fare. After lunch I take a leisurely stroll through town, visiting some of the quaint shops and tiny galleries scattered about the old tree-lined streets.
By early evening, I'm ready for a soak in one of Reykjavìk's refreshing geothermal pools, so I head out to Laugardalur and spend a few hours relaxing in the Jacuzzi, sauna and steaming pools. As rolls around, I head back to my hotel for a power nap. Depending on who's footing the bill, I dine that evening at Sjavarkjallarinn, the fantastic, award-winning seafood restaurant that opened last year, or at Pizza King, the no-nonsense ruler of the Icelandic slice. Following dinner, I finish the evening off with cocktails at the divey bohemian bar Sirkus.
Author: Regis St. Louis
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