Chichicastenango: History

Pre-20th-Century History

Once called Chaviar, Chichi was an important Kaqchiquel trading town long before the Spanish conquest. In the 15th century the Kaqchiquel and the K'iche' (based at K'umarcaaj near present-day Santa Cruz del Quiché) went to war. The Kaqchiquel abandoned Chaviar and moved their headquarters to the more defensible Iximché. When the Spanish conquered K'umarcaaj in 1524, many of its residents fled to Chaviar, which they renamed Chugüilá (Above the Nettles) and Tziguan Tinamit (Surrounded by Canyons). These are the names still used by the K'iche' Maya, although everyone else calls the place Chichicastenango, a name given by the Spaniards' Mexican allies. The Santo Tomás church, which still uses distinctly Mayan rituals, was built in 1540.

Modern History

During the three decades of civil war from the 1960s, Chichi and other highland towns were targeted heavily by guerrillas and the army alike. A fascinating mural alongside the wall of the town hall is dedicated to the victims of the civil war and tells the story of the war using symbology from the Popol Vuh (Mayan bible). Following the war, tourists began drifting back to the highlands and Chichi's huge twice-weekly market became a popular drawcard for visitors.

Recent History

Today Chichicastenango can seem isolated in time and space from the rest of Guatemala. Masheños (citizens of Chichicastenango) are famous for their adherence to pre-Christian religious beliefs and ceremonies; the curious blend of Mayan rituals and Catholicism can be seen in the cofradías (traditional religious brotherhoods) who march to Santo Tomás Church every Sunday morning.

Chichi has two religious and governmental establishments. On the one hand, the Catholic Church and the Republic of Guatemala appoint priests and town officials; on the other, the indigenous people elect their own religious and civil officers to manage local matters, with a separate council and mayor, and a court that decides cases involving only local indigenous people.

Back to top ^