I'm not a huge morning person normally, but it's worth getting up early in Athens, as most of the ancient sites close at . Though I can't do antiquities without first stopping at one of my favourite cafes for a Greek coffee, nice and strong. I take it sketo (without sugar) and it sets me up for the morning. Of course, I'm going to visit the Acropolis during my stay, and will spend at least a day at the fabulous National Archaeological Museum, but today I have other sights in mind. I head straight for the Ancient Agora, where I admire the noble temple of Hephaestus and browse the museum, especially the fascinating ceramic fragments once used for the ostracism (exile) of unpopular politicians (ah, those were the days!). The pretty Byzantine church of the Holy Apostles also catches my eye. Then I head along pedestrianised Ermou, to the Keramikos (once the burial place of ancient Athens), enjoying the Acropolis views. After a light lunch on a terrace in nearby Thisio, I jump on the metro and head to Kolonaki to one of my favourites: the Museum of Cycladic Art, with its curious and beautiful ancient figurines. While I'm in the area, I take advantage of the views by heading up Lykavittos Hill. It's a pretty hot day, so the funicular to the top is the easy option. The views at the top are stunning, and the walk down through scented woods is very pleasant. Then I head into touristy but charming Plaka for a coffee at the excellent Café Plaka. Nearby is one of my favourite dinner spots, Taverna tou Psara. But today I have other ideas for the evening meal and head to fashionable Psirí, a suburb transformed from seedy to trendy in the blink of an eye. I do as the locals do and eat late, after . There are dozens of intriguing places to choose from and, handily, I'm right in the middle of some of the city's most cutting-edge nightlife for late night frolics!
Author: Andy SymingtonAdvertisement
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