Gambia: Getting there & around

Gambia's main airport is Banjul International, about 20km (12mi) southwest of the city centre and 15km (9mi) southeast of the Atlantic coast resorts. It's served by scheduled and charter flights to/from western Europe and other African states, with connections to other parts of the world. An airport tax of around US$7.00 is levied upon leaving Gambia and is payable in any hard currency.

With Senegal surrounding Gambia on all sides save the western coastline, getting in and out of the country by land often involves a change of vehicle at the border - there's little love lost between Senegalese drivers and Gambian policemen. The best way to get to Dakar is via the border in Karang. Ziguinchor is usually reached via Brikama and the border crossing at Seleti.

There are two main routes through the country: the potholed tar road along the southern side of the river and the washed out dirt road along the northern bank. Both are in a disastrous state, though the northbank road is a slightly better option. Unfortunately, most public transport tends to travel along the southbank road so, unless you have your own wheels, you might have little choice in the matter.

There's no comfortable way of travelling upcountry, but seven-seat bush taxis are preferable by far to the battered minibuses that do the same trip. Around the Atlantic coast, your transport choice is between yellow 'town taxis' and green 'tourist taxis'. The latter can also go upcountry, and are about three times more expensive than 'town taxis'.

The Gambia River is rarely used as a means of transport, but if you've got the cash, invest it in an upriver trip with a company such as Hidden Gambia or Gambia River Experience. It might well be the most amazing thing you'll do on your holiday.

Car rental agencies are present in major tourist areas, though this is an expensive business, particularly if you want to travel outside the tourist zones. It's invariably cheaper to negotiate with a local taxi driver, just make sure that the car is in a good state, as breaking down on the roads upcountry is enough to make grown men weep.