Gabon: Getting there & around

Outside of Africa, travellers from Europe have the best air access to Gabon. There are direct flights to Libreville from Brussels, Paris, Rome, Madrid and Geneva. Most travellers consider Air Gabon to be one of the three or four best African airlines serving central and west Africa. There is no departure tax.

You can take the train from Brazzaville to Mbinda, make the hop to Franceville via a series of bush taxis, then take the Transgabonais to Libreville; the total trip should take a minimum of six days. The other border crossing between Gabon and the Congo involves a string of trucks and bush taxis running from Loubomo, Congo, through Doussala to N'Dendé; it's about two days from N'Dendé to Libreville. The stretch between Loubomo and Brazzaville is normally done by train and takes about six days.

Travelling by bush taxis and minibuses between Youndé, Cameroon, and Libreville takes about three days. The crossing is between Bitam and Ambam. Coming from Cameroon, you absolutely must get an entry stamp in Bitam from immigration. The standard fine for infractions is over US$60.00 .

The Libreville-Bata (Equatorial Guinea) route is via the town of Cocobeach, where (if you're going north) you should spend the night, as accommodation is a problem until you get to Mbini or Bata. The leg between Libreville and Cocobeach is 2.5 hours by pick-up. Getting between Cocobeach and Acalayong involves taking a pirogue (motorised dugout canoe) across the Estuaire du Muni. The pirogues leave when full and take about four and a half hours to cross. You'll be charged an 'exit fee' of around US$10.00 at Cocobeach and a similar 'entry fee' at Cogo, but the latter fee is negotiable. There are pick-ups from Acalayong to Mbini and there are others from there to Bata.

There are occasional freight boats that ply between Libreville and Douala that may take passengers. Fares are negotiable, but don't expect any comforts and bring your own food and drink. Enquire at Port Môle (the old port) in Libreville about the possibility. The Solmar II sails between Libreville and São Tomé on a fairly regular schedule; the one-way fare is under US$100.00 .

The fastest way to get around is via Air Gabon, which flies between Libreville and Lambaréné, Port-Gentil, Franceville and other major towns. The frequency varies from daily to three times a week.

The Transgabonais train runs four times a week between Owendo (a few kilometres south of Libreville) and Franceville via Booué and Lastoursville, and is very efficient and punctual. Libreville's railway station is in Owendo, about 10km (6mi) south of the city centre. Most stations along the route are way out of town, and taxis may charge outrageous prices. Unfortunately, there is often no alternative.

Minibuses are more popular than bush taxis, but both are very expensive and service varies greatly from one vehicle (and one trip) to another. Minibuses go in all directions, but the number of people travelling is relatively small, so don't expect much choice of vehicle, even from Libreville. And, when travelling between Libreville and Franceville, 2nd class on the train is as cheap as a minibus.

During the rainy season, bush taxis can be rather dangerous as the roads become very slippery. Moreover, some of the drivers are maniacs, and stopping several times along the way for a drink is a common practice. Most drivers are sober, but if yours gets drunk, catch the next car.

There are several boats that ply between Libreville and Port-Gentil almost every day. The fastest takes about four hours one way; slower boats take from five to eight hours. Once or twice a week, there are boats plying the Ogooué River between Port-Gentil and Lambaréné. The fastest takes about ten hours, though there are some that take a day or more and make several stops along the way; some go on to Ndjolé.

Driving is the least desirable way to get around Gabon. There are very few paved roads, and despite being well-maintained the dirt roads are alternatively slippery or sticky during the long rainy season. Come prepared for all eventualities (you'll want a strong rope or cable). The Libreville-Lambaréné road is paved for two-thirds of the distance. You cannot drive from Libreville to Port-Gentil. There are several major car rental agencies in Libreville; rates are astronomical. You'll need an International Driver's Licence; driving is done on the right.