French Polynesia: Getting there & around

French Polynesia is readily accessible by air from most parts of the world, the sad exception being the rest of the Pacific. Qantas, Air New Zealand, Air France, Aircalin and Air Tahiti Nui shunt most of the visitors, though Lan Chile provides access from South America (and Easter Island) and Hawaiian Air flies between Honolulu and Tahiti once a week. All international air traffic comes through Faa Airport in Pape'ete. There is no departure tax in French Polynesia.

Cruise ships regularly call into the region and it's a favourite among yachties - crewing positions are sometimes available. There are distinct sailing seasons in this part of the Pacific. Yachts tend to leave the US coast in September or October, and between January and early March. From Australia and New Zealand, yachts depart after the cyclone season, around March and April.

Getting around the islands of French Polynesia can be done by boat or air, though access to some of the remote islands can be difficult and unreliable. Domestic air travel is quite expensive, getting predictably costlier with distance. Apart from some small charter operators, domestic flights are handled by Air Tahiti and Air Moorea.

Inter-island boats run regular routes between all of the island groups and can be a great way to travel the region. Huge catamarans ply between Tahiti and Mo'orea and the very modern Ono-Ono services the rest of the Society group. Luxury cruises are available on vessels like the Wind Song and the Arunai .

Tahiti and the developed islands operate a cheap and reliable local bus service (still known as le truck though the battered wrecks that once formed its core have now mostly been replaced). Taxis are horribly expensive. Rental cars, scooters and bicycles are good ways to explore, and 4WDs can be hired if you want to head inland on some of the tracks. In the Marquesas many locals (and tourists) choose to get around on horseback.