I start the day with brunch at Pain & Cie. It's a tad pretentious, but just off cours Estienne d'Orves and the Vieux Port, and I like my breakfast! After filling up on goodies, I make my way to the historic Le Panier quarter, on the other side of the Vieux Port. There are some irresistible shops there such as La Compagnie de Provence and 72% Pétanque, which sell divine soaps and tasty local products. Then I pop into the Centre de la Vieille Charité museum, a stunning building that houses great archeological and ethnological collections.
Depending on budget and hunger, lunch is either at Madie Les Galinettes on the quayside or a picnic in Le Jardin du Pharo on the other side of the Vieux Port. Views here take in the Vieux Port, the ferry port, the Château d'If and neighbouring Frioul Islands; it's incredibly atmospheric.
In the afternoon, heat permitting, I cycle along the corniche with one of the city's vélo (bicycles you can pick up and drop off at about 100 sites across Marseille) to the Parc Balnéaire du Prado, with a stop at the infinitely pretty Vallon des Auffes. If the heat is too much to bear, bus 83 will do the job instead. There are some nice beaches there and I spend the rest of the afternoon alternating swimming with sizzling.
As for dinner, if money is no issue, I head straight to Péron for sundowners and the most idyllic dinner with sea views on the wooden deck terrace. And if I have to be reasonable, I go to Chez Jeannot in the Vallon des Auffes and book a rooftop table (summer option), or spend the night at La Part des Anges, a fabulous gourmet wine bar that serves knock out food and wine (great winter option).
Author: Emilie Filou
article by Donna Wheeler, November 2006
Don’t waste a single crumb on your first day in Marseille. Read the full article ›
Tags: Eating & Drinking • Cities • Culture • France • Marseille
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