Helsinki Tour Expert

Helsinki Tour Expert runs excellent city bus tours (1.5hrs). They depart from the Esplanade Park, near the tourist office, and taped commentary (in 11 languages) comes via a headset.

archipelago cruises

Sun Lines and Royal Lines operate 1.5hr archipelago sea cruises with daily departures in summer from the kauppatori (market hall).

A Top Day in Helsinki

Finns are among the world's biggest coffee drinkers, so it's no surprise that cafes are something they do particularly well. Some of my favourites are along the Esplanade that leads from Mannerheimintie, the main shopping street, down to the harbour. So it's a strong brew at the Strindberg, accompanied by a delicious cardamom-flavoured pulla (sweet bread ring) to kick off a great day in Helsinki. From here, it's a short stroll down to the busy kauppatori (market square), where fresh produce is still sold off boats pulled up at the quay in summer. Helsinki is a harbour city par excellence, so I jump on a boat and head out to Suomenlinna island , the 'fortress of Finland'. If the weather's nice, I definitely take a picnic. Back in town, I head to Senate Square, the neoclassical heart of Helsinki to check out its cathedral. Nearby, the Uspenski cathedral is the Orthodox equivalent, and clearly has Russian architectural influences. Suitably inspired, I continue the theme with a light lunch at one of the city's many excellent Russian restaurants. Art is on the afternoon menu and, depending on my mood, it's off to the Ateneum for my favourites from Finland's Golden Age or to jazzy Kiasma, the contemporary art equivalent and the place to be seen. Thirsty work, galleries, so in the late afternoon I decide it's time for a Lapin Kulta beer. It's summer, so all the terraces are out. Vltava, near the train station, is one of my favourite new bars. Now it's time to get body and soul together before a demanding night on the town. How do I find that inner peace I need? I get the Metro to the Kallio district and head straight for the excellent Kotiharjun Sauna - a historical sauna that's seen more than a drop or two. I sweat it out in the nude with stoic Finns and get a scrub down from the grandmotherly old attendant. Then it's back to town with a hunger that can only be satisfied with seafood at an island restaurant in Helsinki harbour. Boathouse is my favourite. Appetite satisfied, I check out what's on at Tavastia, a legendary rock venue, or head for one of the trendy bars around Iso Roobertinkatu. Later, you'll find me in the club - Uniq, perhaps - on the dancefloor or chilling out - literally - in the ice bar!

Author: Andy Symington

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