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Al-Amir
Arguably the most authentic Middle Eastern (in this case, Syrian) place in town and light years from the gyros and falafel places found along the Big Ring Road. Al-Amir too has a window selling takeaway gyros and falafels, but we're talking quality here.
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Alhambra
This place, which almost certainly has taken inspiration from the celebrated Moro restaurant in London, serves Spanish food with a North African twist as well as straightforward Moroccan dishes such as couscous and tajines. The décor is decidedly more Moorish than the dishes, though, which also include Spanish things like empanadas and paella.
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Aranyszarvas
Set in an old 18th-century inn at the foot of Castle Hill, Aranyszarvas (Golden Stag) serves - what else but game dishes. There's piano music Thursday to Saturday evening and, in summer, the covered outside terrace serving grills is tops.
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Arcade
This distant (we're talking kilometres here) cousin of Café Kör in Buda's well-heeled district XII southwest of the Déli train station has superb and very creative international cuisine, a much coveted leafy terrace set between two converging roads and seamless service. Dress up. There's an excellent wine list.
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Articsóka
Charming Articsóka is tastefully decorated and has an atrium, roof-top terrace and a theatre that can accommodate 100 people. There's live music every second week of the month, and the atmosphere should win a prize. The food is more Hungo-Med than Italian (but heading in that general direction). Pasta dishes are especially recommended.
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Auguszt
Tucked away on the 1st floor of a building behind the Fény utca market and Mammut shopping mall, this is the original Auguszt café (there are imitators), and sells only its own shop-made cakes, pastries and biscuits.
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Bagolyvár
With reworked Hungarian classics that make it a winner, the 'Owl's Castle' attracts the Budapest cognoscenti, who leave its sister restaurant next door, Gundel, to the expense-account brigade. It's staffed entirely by women - kitchen, at table, front of house. (We don't know either.)
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Bangkok House
Bangkok House is done up in kitsch, Asianesque décor that recalls takeaway places on any British high street or American strip mall. But the Thai- and Laotian-inspired dishes are acceptable in a city where Southeast Asian restaurants are at a premium, and the staff is friendly. There's a tourist menu in the afternoon.
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BioPont
This is a pleasant place for a meatless organic meal, with all dishes available in both full and half-portions. There are also 'bio' sandwiches and pizzas if you just want a snack. The attached Samadhi Spiritual Centre hosts all sorts of programmes, classes and lectures.
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Butterfly
This place - and not the pastry shop next door called Vajassütemények boltja - is the place in Pest for ice cream, as you'll be able to deduce from the queues outside.
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Café Kör
Just behind the Basilica of St Stephen, the 'Circle Café' is a great place for a light meal at any time, including late breakfast. Salads, desserts and daily specials are always recommended, and there are also more ambitious three/four-course wine-tasting menus.
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Café Mokka
The name of the game here is 'ethno-cuisine' (don't know either), with a mishmash of dishes; you'll virtually need a map and a compass to read the menu. But we love the space and the great African theme and there's a good wine list. The three-course set menu including wine is good value.
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Café Pierrot
This very stylish and long-established café-cum-bar-cum-restaurant is one of the very few places to be recommended on Castle Hill. The décor is, well - what else? - clownish and there's live piano music every night. The food is Hungo-hybrid and quite good, and the staff is exceptionally friendly.
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Carmel Pince
Decidedly not kosher - signs outside will warn you of that fact in six living languages - but the 'Carmel Cellar' has authentic Ashkenazi specialities such as gefilte fish, matzo -ball soup and a cholent almost as good as the one Aunt Goldie used to make. There's live klezmer music on Thursday evening. A three-course tourist menu is available daily from noon to .
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Central European University Caféteria
The caféteria at the conveniently located Central European University is open to all and also serves pizza.
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Csülök Csárda
The rough-and-ready 'Pork Knuckle Inn' serves just that and other country specialities in enormous quantities in a cellar restaurant. Slide into one of the wooden booths and order a plate to share before you board your train at the nearby Keleti station.
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Daubner Cukrászda
A bit far-flung, tis true, and you can only nibble on the hoof here; there are no seats. But it gets rave reviews from locals and expats alike and has won the Best of Budapest award for best cake shop.
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Déli Kinai Gyorsétterem
This very cheap Chinese place just opposite the Déli train station is suitable for a last-minute feed before you head off.
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Durcin
This is the place to go for bite-sized open-face sandwiches as well as soups and salads. There is also a Northern Inner Town branch (V Október 6 utca 15) as well as a Buda branch (II Retek utca 18) behind the Mammut shopping mall.
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Éden
This place in a mid-18th-century townhouse below Castle Hill must have the classiest location of any vegetarian restaurant anywhere. Seating is in the 1st-floor dining room and, in warmer months, in the pleasant courtyard. Note that Éden is closed on Friday and Saturday.
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Falafel Faloda
This inexpensive place just down from Budapest's theatre district has Israeli-style nosh. You pay a fixed price to stuff a piece of pita bread or fill a plastic container from a great assortment of salads. It also has a good variety of soups.
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Fatál
This place serves massive Hungarian meals on fatal (wooden platters) or in iron cauldrons in three rustic rooms. And follow the rules: bring your appetite and its friends; avoid the noisy backroom; and book in advance.
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Fausto
Still the most upmarket (and expensive) Italian restaurant in town, Fausto has brilliant pasta dishes, daily specials and desserts; there are lots of choices for vegetarians. The yellow walls and antique furniture provide an elegant touch and the Italian wine selection is huge. It remains one of the most pleasant dining experiences in Budapest.
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Fény utca Market
One of the largest and most central food markets in Buda is the Fény utca market next to the Mammut shopping mall.
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Firkász
Set up by former journalists (the name means 'hack' in Hungarian), Firkász is a retro Hungarian restaurant with lovely old mementos on the walls, excellent home cooking and a great wine list. And you can't beat the location in Újlipótváros. Would that they were all like this…





