Puerto Rico is where the easygoing Caribbean collides with the slick efficiency of modern America over syncopated Latin rhythms and rose-tinted tropical sunsets. The result is a colorful, diverse and culturally unique island that is often as confusing as it is cosmopolitan. Hip funky restaurants nestle next to 15th-century Spanish forts; sprawling concrete shopping malls encroach upon fecund tropical rainforests; and glitzy casinos lie juxtaposed against some of the most stunning beaches, caves and offshore coral reefs in the Caribbean.
History is another inviting draw card. While the United States struggles to emulate the erstwhile glories of ‘old world’ Europe, Puerto Rico gets out its killer trump card: beguiling Viejo (Old) San Juan, one of the oldest and best preserved colonial cities in the Americas. Cocooned in the crucible of Spain’s once illustrious colonial empire, five centuries of checkered history continue to slowly unravel. Neighborly pensioners recline languidly in creaking rocking chairs, bomba drums light up the somnolence of a diminutive baroque plaza, and the walls of two great military forts rise like wizened sentinels above the depths of the untamed Atlantic.
Racing headlong into the 21st century, contemporary Puerto Rico can sometimes present a bewildering picture to culture-seeking visitors. Decades of unchecked American-style development have meant that, despite significant economic advances, the modern world has stamped its ugly mark on the idyllically named Isla del Encanto (Island of Enchantment). Witness the ever expanding San Juan suburbs, the asphyxiating traffic gridlock, the insipid fast-food outlets, and the plethora of generic international resorts that pepper the northeast coast. But purists can take heart. In Puerto Rico what you see isn’t always what you get. Scratch under the surface and the soul of the island will serendipitously reveal itself – though finding it can sometimes present a challenge or two. Hop on a local bus, disappear into the central mountains, or pedal your way around the beautiful island of Vieques; just be sure to tear up any cast-iron itineraries and let the open road lead you where it will.
A commonwealth of the United States of America, Puerto Rico is a semi-autonomous territory whose constitutional status has long been a political oxymoron. The island’s cultural manifestations are similarly ridden with contradiction. Puerto Ricans love big American cars, but drive them more like they’re in Mexico City; they have served in numerous foreign wars under the banner of stars and stripes, yet share a closer historical identity to communist Cuba; they have exported over half of their ebullient population to the east coast of the United States, but still exhibit a fierce loyalty to their beloved Borinquen, the island they will always call home.
Confused? Don’t worry. Even native Puerto Ricans sometimes have difficulty in unraveling the baffling intricacies of their much-debated political system. When asked in a 1998 referendum if they would prefer to 1) adopt US statehood, 2) claim outright independence, or 3) remain as a commonwealth of the US, 50.3% of Puerto Ricans voted for an inconclusive ‘none of the above.’ Postponed for future discussion – the debate rages on.
Last updated: Oct 28, 2008
