Print
Email
Bookmark & shareOrientation
A large hill called Phu Si (sometimes spelt Phousi or Phousy) dominates the town skyline, standing towards the middle of the peninsula formed by the confluence of the two rivers. Since it is visible from any point in town, Phu Si serves as a very helpful 'beacon' for orientating yourself. Most of the historic temples are located between Phu Si and the Mekong, while the trading district lies to the south of the hill.
Virtually the whole town can be seen on foot in a day or two, though many visitors extend their stay here in order to soak up more atmosphere.
The official street names in Luang Prabang have changed at least three times over the last decade, so you'll find that naming varies widely on city maps and address cards. Until very recently, naming local streets for Lao royalty, particularly the penultimate king (Sisavang Vong) and his son (Sisavang Vatthana), were definitely out of government favour. All of that appears to have changed since the city was granted Unesco World Heritage status, and the city government now seems to acknowledge its royal patrimony. Currently the main street heading northeast up the peninsula is called Th Phothisarat (Phothisalat according to the modern Lao spelling) at its southwestern end, Th Sisavangvong in its middle reach and Th Sakkarin towards the northeastern end. Th Sakkarin (Sakkalin) is also sometimes known as Th Xieng Thong. The road that runs along the Mekong waterfront is variously known as Souvannakhamphong, Oun Kham and Suvannabanlang, although most locals call it Th Khem Khong. When giving directions, the locals fortunately almost never quote street names, using landmarks instead.
Easy-to-reach attractions outside of town include the Pak Ou caves to the north, which are usually reached by river, and the waterfalls of Tat Kuang Si and Tat Sae to the south, reached by road.
The airport, speedboat landing and northern bus terminal are all northeast of the city, while the southern bus terminal and Sainyabuli terminal are to the southwest.
Getting There
Lao Airlines (tel: 212172; Th Pha Mahapatsaman) operates three daily flights between Luang Prabang and Vientiane. During the high season, flights to/from Phonsavan (Xieng Khuang) may be added.
The Luang Prabang International Airport (tel: 212173), 4km (2.5mi) from the city centre, is modern with good facilities.
Ferries are a major form of transport between Luang Prabang and Huay Xai on the Thai border, but are much less so to other towns. In Luang Prabang the main landing for long-distance Mekong River boats, at the northwestern end of Th Chao Phanya Kang, is called Tha Heua Meh (literally, mail boat pier; ferry pier on our map). A blackboard at the Navigation Office announces long-distance boat departures, eg to Nong Khiaw and Vientiane - it's all in Lao.
Speedboats use a landing at Ban Don, 6km (3.7mi) north of Luang Prabang. To charter a speedboat the pilots usually ask that you pay the equivalent of six passenger fares but they'll usually accept payment for four spaces - often they have paid cargo to carry, too. If you want to share the cost of hiring a speedboat with other passengers it's best to show up at the pier the day before you want to leave and see what your prospects are, then return around the morning of your intended departure to queue up. Speedboat fares can be paid in Thai baht, kip or US dollars. Passengers are required to wear life vests and helmets but the helmets are very often substandard.
As there is no direct road between Huay Xai and Luang Prabang, the river is the most popular route between the Thai border and Luang Prabang.
Pak Beng, on the Mekong roughly halfway between Huay Xai and Luang Prabang, is a common starting point for road trips northeast to Udomxai. If you're heading to Hongsa in northern Sainyabuli Province, coming from Luang Prabang, take the slow boat from the ferry pier as far as Tha Suang (half day), where you can continue on to Hongsa by bus. Smaller, faster speedboats from the pier in Ban Don pound up the Mekong to Tha Suang (2hr), Pak Beng (3hr) and Huay Xai in double the time.
Most passengers and cargo going to Nong Khiaw travel by road nowadays as it's much quicker than by boat, although slow boats still head up the Nam Ou (4.5hr) a couple of times a month from the ferry pier. The same situation applies to Muang Khua, further up the Nam Ou - it's more quickly reached by road than by slow boat. Slow boats do travel there on posted dates. When there are sufficient passengers, speedboats travel from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw (2hr) and Muang Khua (4hr). Be sure to investigate river conditions thoroughly before embarking on a Nam Ou trip; from mid-February on it's not unusual for speedboat pilots to get stranded in Nong Khiaw, unable to bring their boats back until the rains arrive in May or June.
Several times a month slow cargo boats travel between Luang Prabang and Vientiane (4 days upriver, 3 days down) via Tha Deua (6hr downriver, one day upriver). Passenger travel on these boats is rare now that Rte 13 is sealed and fast. When there are sufficient passengers, or more commonly when chartered, speedboats travel downriver to Vientiane (8 or 9hr).
Getting Around
Advertisement
Book Your Trip
Travel insurance. Be covered by our recommended partner.
Compare & book flights from 100's of domestic & international airlines.
Hotels & Hostels
Booking hotels is simple with Lonely Planet. See our reviewed and recommended hotels in one place and book online. Browse hotels ›
Lonely Planet Newsletters
Updates, offers and inspiration - straight to your inbox.
Subscribe now ›
Disclaimer: We've tried to make the information on this web site as accurate as possible, but it is provided 'as is' and we accept no responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience sustained by anyone resulting from this information. You should verify critical information (like visas, health and safety, customs and transportation) with the relevant authorities before you travel.
