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Abd ar-Rahman Harraz
The sheikh of herbalist and medicinal plants, near the Museum of Islamic Art, has a wealth of medicinal and kitchen spices.
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Abd El Zaher
Cairo's last working bookbinder also makes beautiful leather- and oil-paper-bound blank books, photo albums and diaries. Free gold monogramming is included in the prices, which are heartbreakingly low, considering the work that goes into them. Getting your own book bound starts around £E15 and takes a few days.
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Ahmed El Dabba & Sons
The most respected antiques dealer in the Khan is a warren of Louis XV furniture and glass cases filled with gleaming jewellery and snuff boxes. This is where the treasures stashed in 19th-century Downtown apartments all end up.
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Al-Ain Gallery
Established in 1981, this gallery is known for intricate 'Oriental' metalwork lamps by internationally renowned designer Randa Fahmy and its gorgeous items of traditional jewellery fashioned by her sister Azza. The gallery is closed Fri mornings.
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Al-Khatoun
Sharing a small and peaceful garden square with the Beit al-Harrawi and the Beit Zeinab al-Khatoun, this gorgeous store stocks an ever-changing array of contemporary and very chic light-fittings, alabaster pots, linen, jewellery, clothes and shawls. All are designed and made in Egypt. Prices are clearly marked.
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American University in Cairo (AUC) Bookshop, Downtown
The best English-language bookshop in Egypt, with stacks of material on the politics, sociology and history of Cairo, Egypt and the Middle East. Plenty of guidebooks and some fiction.
Read more about American University in Cairo (AUC) Bookshop, Downtown
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American University in Cairo (AUC) Bookshop, Zamalek
The best English-language bookshop in Egypt, with stacks of material on the politics, sociology and history of Cairo, Egypt and the Middle East. Plenty of guidebooks and some fiction.
Read more about American University in Cairo (AUC) Bookshop, Zamalek
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Anglo-Egyptian Bookshop
Good selection of books on Egypt and the Middle East.
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Arkadia Mall
The biggest mall in central Cairo, with bars and a top-floor arcade. All the usual international brands, plus a good food court.
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Atlas
In business since 1948, the Atlas family specialises in silk. Sold by the yard, it's both beautiful and sturdy, and holds its dye better than anything you might find for less. Caftans and slippers are also available, and you can order custom clothing with any of the fabrics.
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Attara Ahl al-Beit
Attara Ahl al-Beit ( M060E; 735 4955; Sharia Shagaret ad-Durr, Zamalek) Excellent spice shop with very friendly service.
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Beit Sherif
Zaki Sherif is responsible for the décor of some of Cairo's trendiest bars. Here he recreates his Ottoman dreams, mixing old furniture and objets d'art with his own designs and artfully displaying the result on three floors of an attractive old house. The glass-and-brass light shades are lovely, as are the richly embroidered cushions.
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Beymen
This Turkish department store is the last word in luxury shopping in Cairo, stocking Prada et al alongside its chic house brand. Disproportionately huge selection of scarves and perfume, and great people-watching in the café.
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Citystars Centre
Cairo's most lavish mall is the current landing spot for every new international chain, from Starbucks to Wagamama. There's a kids' theme park and a big cinema. It's about 12km east of Downtown - an around £E12 taxi ride.
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Dina Maghawry
This boutique showcases the local designer's delicate cascading necklaces trimmed with semiprecious stones and other elegant but modern pieces. Not cheap, but gorgeous work.
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Diwan
Fabulous: English, French and German titles, from novels to travel guides to coffee-table books. It also has a kids' section, large music wing and a small café.
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Egypt Crafts Center/Fair Trade Egypt
This is a fair-trade shop with crafts produced in income-generating projects throughout Egypt. Items for sale include Bedouin rugs from Sinai and the northern Western Desert, embroidery from Sinai, hand-made paper from Muqattam, Bedouin beadwork and Upper Egyptian shawls. Prices are competitive.
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El Kahhal Carpets
Super-elegant El Kahhal Carpets, in the khan, has the finest imported carpet stock in the city, with both antiques and new made-to-order designs.
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Ezbekiyya Book Market
The 50 or so stalls at Ezbekiyya Book Market have the occasional treasures, but browsing the messy piles is a chore.
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Friction
Friction's shop-window mannequins scandalize with underwear-as-outerwear; inside, it's club music and cool clothes from Turkish and Scandinavian designers - still nothing you could wear on the street here, but welcome at better night spots.
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Galerie Hathout
You can find decent linens for less than you'd pay at home at the frumpy Galerie Hathout .
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Home & Beyond
Arabic house-number tiles, striped lampshades and blocks of fragrant ambar - a musky moisturizer.
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Karama Perfumes
Very popular with locals for scent copies as well as its own blends and basic essences; look for the open-sided corner shop at the corner of Sharia al-Muizz.
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Khan al-Khalili
The Khan al-Khalili is full of incredible kitsch, but there are also some worthwhile items. Backgammon boards, as used in Egyptian coffeehouses, start at around Earound £E25 for something quite plain, considerably more for mother-of-pearl inlay. If you have enjoyed smoking a sheesha , you could buy your own - though you'll need to also stock up on the special tobacco and the small clay pots that it is stuffed into.
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Khan Misr Touloun
This shop opposite the Mosque of Ibn Tulun is stacked with a desirable jumble of crafts from all over Egypt, including wooden chests, jewellery, pottery, glass work, puppets, scarves, shawls and woven clothing. There are also gorgeous dolls that make wonderful gifts for little ones. All goods carry price tags.





