Prague sits amid the gentle landscapes of the Bohemian plateau, straddling the Vltava River, the Czech Republic's longest river. Central Prague consists of five historical towns: Hradčany, the castle district, on a hill above the west bank; Malá Strana, the 13th-century 'Little Quarter', between the river and castle; Staré Mêsto, the gothic 'Old Town' on the Vltava's east bank; adjacent Josefov, the former Jewish ghetto; and Nové Mêsto or 'New Town,' (new in the 14th century), to the south and east of Staré Mêsto.
Within these historical districts - linked by the landmark Charles Bridge - are most of the city's attractions. The whole compact maze is best appreciated on foot, aided by Prague's fine public transportation system. Beyond the centre is 19th- and 20th-century Prague, many of whose districts began as separate towns.
Getting in and out of Prague is a snap, thanks to the cheap and well-run trains of Czech Railways (ČD) and the buses, which are even cheaper still, run more frequently and are quite comfortable. The budget prices and convenience of these modes of transports mean that air travellers to Prague are comparatively rare; if you do fly into the city, you'll fetch up in Ruzyně, the international airport.
Buses tend to be faster, more frequent and marginally cheaper than the train. All domestic long-distance buses and most regional services depart the Florenc station, though many regional buses depart other terminals scattered throughout the city.
Trains run daily between Prague and most major European cities; Paris, Amsterdam, Munich and Vienna are some major hubs. Within the Czech Republic, Czech Railways (ČD) provides cheap, efficient service. Various passes are available.
Prague's Ruzyně airport, 17km (11mi) northwest of the city centre, is the Czech Republic's only international airport. It's served by dozens of international carriers, including Česke aerolinie (ČSA), the state airline. Departure tax is included in the price of the ticket. Smaller Karlovy Vary airport primarily serves domestic travellers, but has regular flights to Moscow.
Prague's compact historic centre is best appreciated on foot, with the help of cheap, widespread public transportation. To think of driving is just foolhardy - the city's not set up too well for cars (or, for that matter, for bicycles). If you take taxis, beware of inflated fares; your best bet is a radio taxi.
Driving through the narrow, winding cobbled streets of Old Town, particularly during rush hour, should be attempted only by masochists. However, if you can handle the parking, trams, pedestrianised zones, other cars, cyclists and police looking for a handout, at least you get to stay on your own schedule, as opposed to the city's timetables.
Prague is plagued with unscrupulous cabbies; a 2002 crackdown exposed the extent of the problem and introduced harsher penalties, but hailing a taxi on the street, at least in a tourist zone, still holds the risk of an inflated fare. Calling a radio taxi will probably be better value.
Bicycling is somewhat problematic, as traffic is heavy and there are few bicycle lanes. Be sure to lock both your frame and tyres!
Weather and water levels permitting, various outfits ply boats up and down the Vltava River. These are more sightseeing cruises than transport.
Increasing, but still limited, attention is being paid to facilities for the disabled in Prague. Wheelchair ramps are becoming more common, especially at major street intersections and in top-end hotels. For the blind or vision-impaired, most pedestrian-crossing lights in central Prague have a sound signal to indicate when it's safe to cross. The Stavovské Theatre is equipped for the hearing-impaired, and this and several other theatres are wheelchair-accessible. The monthly what's-on booklet Prehled indicates venues with wheelchair access. Few buses and no trams have wheelchair access; special wheelchair-accessible buses operate Monday to Friday on line Nos 1 and 3, including between Florenc bus station and námestí Republiky, and between Holešovice train station and námestí Republiky. Praha hlavní nádraží, Holešovice train station and a handful of metro stations (Hlavní nádraží, Hurka, Luka, Lužiny, nádraží Holešovice, Stodulky and Zlicín) have self-operating lifts. Other metro stations (Chodov, Dejvická, Florenc C line, Háje, IP Pavlova, Opatov, Pankrác, Roztyly and Skalka) have modified lifts that can be used with the help of station staff. Czech Railways (CD) claims that every large station in the country has wheelchair ramps and lifts, but in fact the service is poor.
When flying, disabled travellers should inform the airline of their needs when booking, and again when reconfirming, and again when checking in. Most international airports (including Prague's) have ramps, lifts, accessible toilets and telephones. Aircraft toilets, on the other hand, present problems for wheelchair travellers, who should discuss this early on with the airline and/or their doctor.
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