The government has been planning to build a series of bridges across the several rivers that feed Laguna de Arenal's southwestern shore for about 20 years - this would provide a road connection between Monteverde and La Fortuna, which would probably be the end of this eco-paradise. Fortunately it doesn't look like they're going to make much progress (at least in this century).
Attempting this route on horseback is still possible, but you should be vigilant when choosing a company and a horse - the odd unscrupulous operator is still out there working their poor steads into the ground.
All intercity buses stop at the bus terminal (tel: 645 5159) in downtown Santa Elena, and most continue on to the cheese factory in Monteverde. Purchase tickets to Reservas Monteverde and Santa Elena at Hotel Camino Verde, which can also make reservations for pricier trips with private companies.
Hiring a car can be tricky - all roads here are shockingly rough, and a 4WD is necessary all year, especially in the rainy season. Many car-rental agencies will refuse to rent you an ordinary car during rainy season if you admit that you're headed to Monteverde.
The fastest route between Monteverde/Santa Elena and La Fortuna is a jeep-boat-jeep combo, which can be arranged through almost any hotel or tour operator in either town.
Buses to Reserva Monteverde (30min) depart from the front of Banco Nacional several times throughout the day. Buses bound for Reserva Santa Elena (30min) depart from the same spot.
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