Costa Rica: Getting there & around

Getting There

• bus

  If crossing borders by bus, note that international buses may cost slightly more than taking a local bus, then another onwards, from the border, but they're worth it. These better-quality buses travel faster and can help you cross efficiently. The most popular crossing point between Nicaragua and Costa Rica is on the Interamericana at Peñas Blancas. While processing is slow, travelers report that, for the most part, it's hassle-free. The crossing at Los Chiles, further east, is infrequently used but reportedly easy to navigate. For Panama, the main point is on the Interamericana at Paso Canoas. Expect long lines, generally free of complications. On the Caribbean side, the crossing at Sixaola is much more sedate.

• boat

  There is a regular boat service connecting Los Chiles with San Carlos, on the southeast corner of Lake Nicaragua.

• air

  The national airline, Lacsa (part of the Central American Airline consortium Grupo TACA), flies to numerous points in the US and Latin America, including Cuba. The US Federal Aviation Administration has assessed Costa Rica's aviation authorities to be in compliance with international safety standards. Fares go up during the high season (from December through April).

Back to top ^

Getting Around

• bus

  In San José, bus offices are scattered around the city: some large bus companies have big terminals that sell tickets in advance, while others have little more than a stop, sometimes unmarked. Normally there's room for everyone on the bus, and if there isn't, squeeze in. The exceptions are days before and after a major holiday, especially Easter, when buses are jammed. (There are no buses on the Thursday to Saturday before Easter Sunday.) There are two types of bus: directo and colectivo . Directos charge more and presumably make few stops. However, it goes against the instinct of Costa Rican bus drivers not to pick up every single roadside passenger. Trips longer than four hours usually include a rest stop (buses don't have bathrooms). Periodically check that your stored luggage isn't 'given away' at intermediate stops. Keep your day pack, with important documents, on you at all times. Thefts from overhead racks are rampant. Bus schedules fluctuate, so confirm the time when purchasing your ticket. If you are catching a bus roadside, arrive early. Departure times are estimated and if the bus comes early, it will leave early. For departures from San José, the schedule can be found online at www.visitcostarica.com.

• boat

  Ferries cross the Golfo de Nicoya connecting the central Pacific coast with the southern tip of Península de Nicoya. The Coonatramar ferry (tel: 661 1069) links Puntarenas with Playa Naranjo four times daily. The Ferry Peninsular (tel: 641 0515) travels between Puntarenas and Vaquero every two hours. On the Golfo Dulce, a daily passenger ferry links Golfito with Puerto Jiménez on the Península de Osa, and a weekday water taxi travels to/from Playa Zancudo. On the other side of the Península de Osa, water taxis connect Bahía Drake with Sierpe. On the Caribbean coast, a bus-and-boat service runs several times daily, linking Cariari and Tortuguero. Canal boats travel from Moín to Tortuguero, although no regular service exists. A daily water taxi connects Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí with Trinidad, Nicaragua, on the Río San Juan. Arrange boat transport in any of these towns for Barra del Colorado.

• car

  The roads vary from quite good (the Interamericana) to barely passable (just about everywhere else). Even the good ones can suffer from landslides, sudden flooding and fog. Most roads have single lanes and are winding; others are dirt-and-mud affairs that climb mountains and traverse rivers. Speed limits are 100km (62mi) per hour or less on primary roads and 60km (37mi) per hour or less on others. Traffic police use radar and enforce speed limits. Wearing seat belts is compulsory. Most car-rental agencies are found in San José and in popular tourist destinations on the Pacific coast (Tamarindo, Jacó, Quepos and Puerto Jiménez). It's not cheap, but it is worth investing in a 4WD. Required basic insurance is usually in addition to the price. Alternatively, your credit card may insure you for car rentals - check. Most insurance plans do not cover water damage, so be extra careful when cruising through those rivers. You also need to be 21 years old, have a valid driver's license, a major credit card and a passport. A foreign driver's license is acceptable for up to 90 days. Carefully inspect the car and make sure any previous damage is noted on the rental agreement. If you plan to drive from North America, you'll need the usual insurance and ownership papers. In addition, you must buy Costa Rican insurance at the border and pay a road tax. You're not allowed to sell the car in Costa Rica. If you need to leave the country without the car, you must leave it in a customs warehouse in San José.

• taxi

  Taxis serve urban and remote areas. They are useful for remote destinations, such as national parks, where bus services are unavailable. In small villages without clearly marked taxis, ask at the local pulpería about service. If the taxi doesn't have a meter, set the fare ahead of time.

• bicycle

  The traffic may be hazardous and the roads narrow, steep and winding, but cyclists do pedal Costa Rica. Mountain bikes and beach cruisers can be rented in towns with a significant tourist presence.

• shuttle bus

  Tourist-van shuttles are provided by Grayling's Fantasy Bus (tel: 220 2126; www.graylinecostarica.com) and Interbus (tel: 283 5573; www.interbusonline.com). Both run overland transport from San José to the most popular destinations, and between other destinations (see website). Services from San José to Puntarenas and Monteverde provide hotel pick-up, air-con and are faster than public buses. Reserve online or through local travel agencies and hotels.

• air

  NatureAir flies from Tobías Bolaños airport, 8km (4.9mi) west of the center of San José in the suburb of Pavas. Sansa operates out of Juan Santamaría airport. Both fly small passenger planes with a baggage allowance of 12kg (26lbs). Space is limited and demand great in high season, so reserve ahead.

• road

  People who hitchhike will be safer if they travel in pairs and let someone know where they are planning to go. Single women should use greater discretion. Hitchhiking is never entirely safe and Lonely Planet doesn't recommend it. Hitching in Costa Rica is unusual on main roads as buses are frequent. On minor rural roads, it's more common. To get picked up, most locals wave to cars in a friendly manner. Hitchhikers should offer to pay upon arrival. Many will wave the offer aside, but it is polite.

• motorcycle

  Motorcycles (even Harleys) can be rented in San José.

• Disabled Travellers

  Although Costa Rica has an equal-opportunity law for disabled people, it applies only to new or newly remodeled businesses and is loosely enforced. Buses don't have special provisions for wheelchairs and few hotels, restaurants or parks have features specifically suited to wheelchair use. One exception is Volcán Poás. Outfitter Vaya con Silla de Ruedas (tel: 454 2810; www.gowithwheelchairs.com) offers specialty trips for travelers who use wheelchairs.

Back to top ^