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Valparaíso is effectively two cities: El Plan, the relatively normal flat area containing the business district, shopping streets, market areas and plazas; and the precarious cerros (hills) that rise up behind El Plan, with colorful, chaotically planned houses and sinuous streets. Each of the hills has its own unique identity; the bohemian charms of Cerros Concepción and Alegre attract the most visitors.
In the city's congested commercial center, pinched between the port and the hills, nearly all major streets run parallel with the shoreline, which curves north as it approaches Viña del Mar. Av Errázuriz runs the length of the waterfront, alongside the railway, before merging with Av España, the main route to Viña. The main shopping district runs from Plaza Aníbal Pinto east to Plaza Victoria.
Getting There
The fastest and most convenient option of getting to Valparaíso from Santiago is to take the Metro out to Pajaritos metro station and catch a bus from there (1.5hr). Nearly all bus companies have offices at Valparaíso's Terminal Rodoviario on Av Pedro Montt, across from the Congreso Nacional. Several bus companies travel to coastal and interior destinations in the northern sector of the region, such as Quintero, Papudo and La Ligua (1hr). Other options include Algarrobo (1hr), Isla Negra (for Neruda's house; 1.5hr), Temuco (11hr), Valdivia, Osorno (14hr) and Puerto Montt (16hr). Talca, Chillán, Concepción and Los Angeles, as well as destinations in Argentina, are also catered for. Buses to the lovely coastal town of Quintay run five times daily from the corner of Chacubuco and 12 de Febrero.
Getting Around
The most unusual way to get around Valparaíso is by trolley car. These still run throughout the city, although most of them have seen better days.
Valparaíso and Viña del Mar are almost contiguous - they are connected by countless local buses and slightly more expensive colectivos .
Metro Regional de Valparaíso (Merval) operates regular commuter trains within the Valparaíso-Viña area and to the towns of Quilpué, Villa Alemana and Limache. The area's traffic congestion makes the frequent service between Valparaíso and Viña a superior alternative to either bus or taxi; services cease at around .
Valparaíso's Estación Puerto (Plaza Sotomayor 711) is at the corner of Errázuriz, with additional stations at Bellavista (on Errázuriz between Pudeto and Molina) and at Muelle Barón.
Driving in Valparaíso makes little sense, but cars can be useful for visiting beach resorts to the north or south.
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