Orientation

Santiago is immense, but Santiago Centro is relatively small - it's a roughly triangular area bounded by the Rió Mapocho to the north, the Vía Norte Sur to the west and the Avenida del Libertador General Bernado O'Higgins (aka 'the Alameda') to the south. The triangle's apex is Plaza Baquedano (aka Plaza Italia). Should you get disoriented, the Andes are visible to the east, smog permitting. Downtown Santiago's street plan largely conforms to the standard grid pattern that the colonizers imposed on all their American possessions. Notable buildings such as the metropolitan cathedral are clustered around Plaza de Armas. West of the Vía Norte Sur, Barrio Brasil is an intriguing enclave of early 20th-century architecture. Across the Mapocho from Plaza Italia, there's Santiago's lively 'Paris quarter', Barrio Bellavista. The enormous Cerro San Cristóbal overlooks Bellavista: taking the funicular (cable railway) to the top will help you come to grips with Santiago's crazy geography.

Getting There

Almost all international flights arrive at Santiago's Aeropuerto Internacional Arturo Merino Benítez, in Pudahuel. Chile's national airline, Lan, flies from here to South American neighbors such as Peru, Bolivia, Argentina and Brazil. Most direct flights to Santiago from the US depart from New York, Miami and Los Angeles. From Europe, direct flights to Santiago leave cheaply and frequently from Madrid; occasionally direct flights also leave from other European capitals.

There are direct bus services to Santiago from most countries in South America, although the long trips can be harrowing. Santiago has four main bus terminals, from which buses leave for northern, central and southern destinations. The most reputable bus company is Tur Bus. Terminal San Borja (Alameda 3250), alongside the main railway station, has buses to Arica and the cordillera (mountain range) around Santiago. Terminal de Buses Alameda (cnr Alameda & Jotabeche) is home to Tur Bus and Pullman Bus, both going to destinations north, south and on the coast. Terminal de Buses Sur (Alameda 3850, btwn Ruiz Tagle & Nicasio Retamales) has many services to the central coast, and to international and southern destinations. Terminal Los Héroes (Tucapel Jiménez), near the Alameda in Santiago Centro, is more convenient and less chaotic. Buses mainly head north along the Panamericana Highway, but a few go to Argentina and south to Temuco. Fares can vary, so explore options.

Trains go south from Santiago, through Talca (2.5hr) and Chillán (5hr) to Temuco.

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Getting Around

Santiago's cheap, exhaust-spewing micros (minibuses) are in the process of being replaced. Many buses currently have signed, fixed stops, but may stop at other points. The new green buses don't take bills, only coins.

Quicker and more comfortable than buses, colectivos carry up to five passengers on fixed routes. They look like regular taxis, but have an illuminated roof sign indicating their route.

Clean, quick and efficient, the metro has three lines that link to form a network to most places of interest, making it the best way to get around the city.

Santiago's black-and-yellow taxis are abundant and moderately priced. There's also a system of radio taxis, which can be slightly cheaper.

Renting a car to drive around Santiago is a sure-fire way to have a bad day. If you must, there are a number of hire agencies including Acchi, Budget, First and Hertz.

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