Vancouver: Getting there & around

Orientation

Vancouver lies in the southwestern corner of British Columbia, the southwesternmost province in Canada. It's on the Pacific coast, backed by the Coast Mountains and fronting Vancouver Island across Georgia Strait. The city is 40km (25mi) north of the US border, 73km (45mi) north of Victoria (the capital of British Columbia) and 189km (117mi) north of Seattle. Downtown and the major neighbourhoods are on a small peninsula, surrounded by English Bay on the west and the Burrard Inlet on the east. To the north of Burrard Inlet lie West and North Vancouver and the Coast Mountains. Bays, inlets and river branches, as well as the Pacific coastline, are major features of the city.

The downtown peninsula is separated from the southern section of the city by the narrow inlet of False Creek. The centre of downtown is Pacific Centre, a three-block complex of offices, restaurants, shops and theatres at the corner of Robson and Howe Sts. Robson and Georgia St (two blocks north) are the two principal northwest-southeast streets. Both run into Stanley Park, the city's largest park, which occupies the tip of the peninsula. Chinatown, the West End and other major neighbourhoods are within walking distance of downtown.

Vancouver International Airport is about 13km (8mi) south of the city on Sea Island, between Vancouver and the city of Richmond. Both rail and long-distance bus services are located at the Pacific Central Station, on Station St between National and Terminal Aves, a few blocks south of Chinatown.

Getting There

• air

  Canada's second-busiest airport, Vancouver International Airport (YVR; tel: 604 207 7077; www.yvr.ca) is about 13km (8mi) south of the city on Sea Island in Richmond, and all the major carriers service it. There are two main terminals - international (including flights to the USA) and domestic - as well as a south terminal for seaplanes and smaller aircraft. Each of the main terminals has all the requisite facilities. The domestic terminal also has a medical clinic, dental clinic and pharmacy, while the international terminal has the goods and services tax (GST) refund office. A free, twice-hourly shuttle bus links the main terminals to the south terminal (which is too far to walk). In downtown Vancouver there is a seaplane terminal in Coal Harbour just west of Canada Place and a helicopter terminal near Waterfront Station.

  The Vancouver Airporter (tel: 604 946 8866, 800 668 3141; www.yvrairporter.com) plies the route between Vancouver International Airport and the major downtown hotels from approximately 06:30 to 23:00 . A one-way trip takes about 35 minutes, depending on traffic. Tickets can be purchased from the Airporter ticket office outside the main terminal and adjacent to the bus departure zone, from the driver or from the hotels. A cheaper way into the city is via TransLink. From the airport, take bus 424 to Airport Station, then transfer to bus 98-B-Line (Bay No 1) to Burrard SkyTrain station downtown; the service operates from 05:30 to 00:30 . A metered taxi to central Vancouver takes about 25 minutes, depending on traffic.

• road

  Buses to Canadian and US destinations originate at Pacific Central Station (tel: 800 661 8747; 1150 Station St; 05:00 - 24:00 ). The magnificent terminal has currency exchange booths, left-luggage lockers and an information desk. When making reservations, always ask for the direct or express bus. Advance tickets do not guarantee a seat. Greyhound Canada (tel: 800 661 8747; www.greyhound.ca) goes to points east and north in Canada, as well as Seattle. For further travel throughout the USA, contact Greyhound Lines (www.greyhound.com). Note Greyhound does not go to Victoria. Discounts on standard one-way adult fares are given to ISIC cardholders, seniors, children and pairs traveling together. Purchase tickets at least a week in advance for the best prices. There are a number of other operators running long-distance services, including Pacific Coach Lines (tel: 604 662 8074, 800 6611725; www.pacificcoach.com) which does run to Victoria, Perimeter (tel: 604 266 5386, 877 317 7788; www .perimeterbus.com) and Quick Coach Lines (tel: 604 940 4428, 800 665 2122; www.quickcoach.com).

• rail

  Trains chug into Pacific Central Station, which has currency exchange booths and luggage lockers, among other amenities. VIA Rail (tel: 888 842 7245; www.viarail.ca) runs only one service to/from Vancouver called the Canadian, which runs east through Kamloops, Jasper, Edmonton and Winnipeg en route to Toronto. Spectacular scenery and excellent facilities easily make this North America's greatest train ride. Stopovers are permitted, but you must re-reserve a seat for your onward journey. Fares vary wildly, but are cheaper if tickets are purchased at least one week in advance. Amtrak (tel: 800 872 7245; www.amtrak.com) runs the Cascades line daily between Vancouver and Seattle. In addition, Amtrak runs three buses a day from Vancouver to Seattle, where passengers can connect with Los Angeles- and Chicago-bound trains. The one-way fare is the same for the train or bus and it takes four hours. International passengers are responsible for securing all necessary documentation (ie passports and visas) prior to on-board customs and immigration procedures. Reservations are required.

• water

  BC Ferries (tel: 250 386 3431, in British Columbia 888 223 3779; www.bcferries.com) travel to Vancouver Island, the Gulf Islands, Sunshine Coast and beyond. Vancouver's two ferry terminals are at Tsawwassen and Horseshoe Bay. Most ferries from Tsawwassen (38km/24mi south of downtown Vancouver) go to Swartz Bay (32km/20mi north of Victoria on Vancouver Island) and the Southern Gulf Islands. Ferries from Horseshoe Bay (21km/13mi northwest of downtown Vancouver) mostly depart for the Sunshine Coast and Nanaimo (97km/60mi northwest of Victoria). You can buy passenger-only tickets at the ferry terminals (no reservations accepted). You can also make vehicle reservations for a fee - definitely recommended if you're travelling on weekends or anytime in July or August. BC Ferries' Circlepac is a four-route pass that saves 15% as you loop from the mainland to Vancouver Island to the Sunshine Coast (or in the opposite direction). Pacific Coach provides a more costly option but it's less of a hassle. To reach the Tsawwassen terminal, catch southbound bus 601 at Burrard SkyTrain station to the Ladner Exchange, then take bus 620. To reach Horseshoe Bay, take northbound bus 257 or 250 from Georgia St near Granville.

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Getting Around

• road

  You really don't need a car for sightseeing around town, but for visits throughout Greater Vancouver, a car makes life much simpler.

  Be prepared for major congestion, especially during peak hours, as Vancouver doesn't have any expressways going through its core. The use of seat belts is compulsory throughout Canada, and motorcyclists must wear helmets. Drivers can turn right on a red light after first having made a full stop; drivers must stop for pedestrians at crosswalks. With few exceptions, you can legally drive in Canada as long as you have a valid driver's license issued by your home country. You may be required to show an international driving permit if your license isn't written in English (or French). Short-term US visitors can bring in their own vehicles without special permits, provided they have insurance. If you've rented a car in the USA and you are driving it into Canada, bring a copy of the rental agreement to save any possible hassle by border officials. On weekends and holidays, especially during summer, major land border crossings with the USA quickly become jammed. You can check border wait times online before leaving at www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/general/times/menu-e.html. Smaller, secondary US-Canada border crossings are usually not busy, but sometimes are so quiet that the customs fficers have nothing better to do than tear your luggage apart.

  Finding street parking downtown is a challenge with expensive meters, resident-only side street parking and merciless tow trucks. Aim for paid undercover carparks.

  Car rental rates fluctuate wildly, so it's worth shopping around. Booking ahead usually ensures the best rates, with the airport often being cheaper than downtown. Keep in mind that, after adding insurance, taxes, excess kilometres and any other fees, you could be handed a pretty surprising bill. All the major agencies are represented at the airport.

• rail

  The elevated SkyTrain light-rail system has two lines. The Expo Line runs from Waterfront Station downtown to King George Station in Surrey. The Millennium Line parallels it to Columbia Station in New Westminster, then circles back northeast through Burnaby and connects to Expo again at Broadway Station/Commercial Dr. SkyTrain operates from about 05:30 to 01:00 , every five to 10 minutes.

• riding

  Vancouver has 16 cycling routes covering almost 130km (80mi). Two maps are available at various bicycle shops and bookstores: the Regional Vancouver Cycling Map by TransLink and Cycling in Vancouver(free) by the city transportation department's Bicycle Hotline (tel: 604 871 6070; www.city.vancouver.bc.ca /engsvcs/transport/cycling). The Vancouver Area Cycling Coalition (tel: 604 878 8222; www.vacc .bc.ca) and Cycling BC (tel: 604 737 3034; www .cycling.bc.ca) are also good resources.

  Cyclistsmust wear helmets and stay off sidewalks. TransLink permits bicycles on most buses, SkyTrain and SeaBus, except during weekday peak hours ( 06:30 to 09:30 and 15:00 ). Bicycles are allowed on BC Ferries and Aquabus ferries.

• water

  SeaBus Passenger ferries glide between Waterfront Station downtown and Lonsdale Quay in North Vancouver in a mere 12 minutes. SeaBus operates from around 06:00 to 12:30am , roughly every 15 to 30 minutes.

  There are two mini-ferry companies servicing Vancouver. Aquabus (tel: 604 689 5858; www.aquabus.bc.ca) and False Creek Ferries (FCF; tel: 604 684 7781; www.granvilleislandferries .bc.ca) operate nifty mini-ferries that resemble bath-tub boats around False Creek from about 07:00 to 22:00 , with a reduced schedule in winter. Both sail similar routes from Granville Island to Stamp's Landing to Yaletown or to Science World. Aquabus also runs between Granville Island and the south foot of Hornby St (this is the only route that also allows bicycles, at minimal extra cost). FCF go from Sunset Beach's Aquatic Centre to Vanier Park's museums or Granville Island.

• Disabled Travellers

  Guide dogs may legally be brought into restaurants, hotels and other businesses. Many public service phone numbers and some payphones are adapted for the hearing impaired. About 90% of downtown's sidewalks have sloping ramps and most public buildings are wheelchair accessible. There is a directory published by the Canadian Paraplegic Association of BC, called Accessible Vancouver. This lists accessible hotels, museums and facilities (tel: 604 324 3611; www.canparaplegic.org/bc). Freedom Rentals (tel: 604 952 4499; www.wheelchairvanren tals.com) provides lift-equipped vans.

  The government lists accessible transport throughout Canada at www.accesstotravel.gc.ca online. TransLink runs lift-equipped buses on more than half its routes; all buses should be accessible by 2007. All SkyTrain stations, except Granville, are wheelchair accessible; Granville should be accessible by late 2006. TransLink's HandyDART (tel: 604 453 4634) vans offer custom door-to-door service; users need a HandyPass, which usually takes three days to process. VIA Rail and long-distance bus companies can accommodate wheelchairs if given sufficient advance notice. You can apply for disabled parking permits ( C$15:00 ) via SPARC BC (tel: 604 718 7744; www.sparc.bc.ca). Other helpful resources include: BC Coalition of People with Disabilities (tel: 604 875 0188, TDD 604 875 8835; www.bccpd.bc.ca); Canadian National Institute for the Blind (tel: 604 431 2121; www.cnib.ca); Mobility International USA (tel: 541 343 1284; www.miusa.org) and Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality (tel: 212 447 7284; www.sath.org).

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