Bhutan: Getting there & around

There are only two ways to get into Bhutan: fly to Paro, 55km from Thimphu, or by road at Phuentsholing on the southern border with India. The national carrier, Druk Air, has several flights from Bangkok, Delhi, Kolkata and Kathmandu each week. Druk Air has no interline agreements with other carriers and they are the only airline that flies into or out of Bhutan. You will need to book your ticket through a tour operator, who will also arrange your visa, see www.tourism.gov.bt. The flight from Kathmandu to Paro provides the most dramatic view of Himalayan scenery of any scheduled flight. Be sure to get a window seat on the left side for some of the best views you will ever see from a plane.

Druk Air won't issue your ticket until they have received your 'visa clearance' from the Department of Tourism (DOT). Without competition they can afford to be expensive, and they are. On arrival at Paro airport, the clerk will miraculously find your clearance and issue your visa, then away you go.

Paro Airport is less than two hours from Thimphu. Your prearranged vehicle will probably take you directly there from the airport. Departure tax from Paro is now included in ticket price.

If arriving by land and crossing the border at Phuentsholing you will also need to pre-organise your visa through the Department of Tourism (DOT) before you arrive; no visas are given at the border. The best way to plan a trip by road is to start in Kathmandu, perhaps visiting Darjeeling and Sikkim en route.

Because Bhutan has no domestic air service, possesses no helicopters, and does not include an inch of railway track, the only way to see the place is by foot or by road. If you're on a normal tourist visa, your tour operator will provide all your transportation. If you're working on a government project or are an Indian national you will have to rely on public transport. Good luck! Public buses are crowded and rough and the winding roads make them perversely uncomfortable.

If you don't already have a vehicle at your disposal, it's possible to hire one with a driver through a travel agency. Mountain biking in Bhutan is gaining popularity and this is a great way to explore, especially around the Thimphu and Paro valleys. Bikes are available for rent in Thimphu. Taxis operate without meters and fares are very much open to negotiation, and sometimes exploitation.