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Central Brussels is divided into two main areas, the Lower and Upper Towns. The Lower Town comprises the medieval city centre, built around the imposing former market square of Grand Place. The area is easy to get around on foot, its cobbled streets leading to popular quarters such as Ilôt Sacré, Ste Catherine, St Géry and Marolles.
The Upper Town, to the southeast, has a vastly different atmosphere. The traditional base of Brussels' French-speaking elite, it's home to wide boulevards, major museums, chic shopping areas around Sablon and Ave Louise, and monumental buildings including the Belgian parliament.
Most of Brussels proper is surrounded by a motorway - the Petit Ring - but there are interesting sites beyond the centre. The glass-and-steel EU quarter is bordered by the trendy Ixelles district, known for its many Art Nouveau buildings. To the north, the Domaine Royale is the residence of Belgium's royal family.
Getting There
Brussels Airport(formerly known as Zaventem) is 14km (9mi) northeast of Brussels. Many international airlines fly here, but more fly into other European cities, so, depending on where you're coming from, it may be better to fly into Paris, London, Frankfurt or Amsterdam and train or bus it to Brussels. Departure tax is usually included in ticket prices. Belgium is so small that there are no internal flights between cities. A train station on the airport's lowest level (-1) runs the Airport City Express shuttle train between the airport and Brussels' three main train stations: Gare du Nord, Gare du Midi and Gare Centrale. The latter is a five-minute walk from the Grand Place. You can also catch a taxi from outside the arrivals hall - official taxis have a yellow and blue 'Taxi' sign.
Brussels is well connected with most other European and Belgian cities. Gare du Midi is the main train station for international connections: the Eurostar and Thalys fast trains stop here. Euroline's main bus depot is next to Gare du Nord, where you can book buses between Brussels and the rest of Europe, Scandinavia and the UK. Buses aren't necessarily the cheapest option, however, so shop around. Driving is always an option - Belgium's motorway system is excellent - but beware of impatient and aggressive local drivers! Cycling from other parts of Belgium is possible, but you will need to be intrepid if you take to the roads in Brussels - the city doesn't have many cycle paths. There are a variety of ferry options, direct from the UK or via Calais in France.
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bus
Of the two Eurolines offices, the main one is at Gare du Nord, and most buses depart from here (www.eurolines.be; Gare du Nord office; Rue du Progrès 80; tel: 02 274 13 50; Gare du Midi office; Ave Fosny 13; tel: 02 538 20 49). Eurolines buses from Brussels serve the following cities: Amsterdam (4.5hrs, seven daily); Cologne (4.5hrs, one daily); Frankfurt (5.5hrs, two daily); London (8.5hrs, five daily); and Paris (3.5hrs, 11 daily).
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car
Major car rental companies have city centre offices, as well as offices at Gare du Midi and Brussels Airport. Rentals from both the airport and Gare du Midi cost considerably more due to additional taxes.
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train
Brussels' three main train stations are Gare Centrale (Central Station), Gare du Midi (South Station), and Gare du Nord (North Station). The recently renovated Gare du Midi is the main station for international connections: the Eurostar (www.eurostar.com) and Thalys (www.thalys.com) fast trains stop here. Most other international trains stop at both Gare du Nord and Gare du Midi while some also stop at Gare Centrale. There are information offices at all three stations, open from early morning to late evening. For all national inquiries, tel: 02 528 28 28.
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air
Brussels Airport (tel: 02 753 42 21, flight information tel: 0900 70 000; www.brussels airport.be) is northeast of Brussels. The departures hall is on level 3, where you'll find an information desk and free airport maps. The arrivals hall is on level 2 and has a post office, ATM, car-rental agencies and tourist information counters. The bus terminus is on level 0 and the train station is on level -1.
The Airport City Express train ( - , every 15mins) runs between Brussels Airport and the city's three main train stations. The trip takes 15 to 25 minutes (depending on your station). Taxis wait outside the airport arrivals hall. Official taxis have a yellow and blue plaque near the numberplate.
Getting Around
Brussels' modern and efficient public transportation system includes the metro, trams, premetro (trams that go underground for part of their journey) and buses, all run by the Société des Transports Intercommunaux de Bruxelles (STIB in French, MIVB in Flemish). Tickets are available at metro stations, STIB kiosks, some newsagents and on buses and trams. You can purchase single-trip tickets, five/ten-journey tickets or day passes. Metro stations are marked by rectangular signs with a white 'M' on a blue background. Tram and bus stops have red and white signs. There's no central hub for buses, so you'll want to pick up the STIB's free transportation map. Premetro trams run mainly between Gare du Nord and Gare du Midi. Trains are of minimal use within Brussels for visitors, except for getting to the airport. There are car rental companies at Gare du Midi, Brussels airport and around the city; the latter offer the cheapest prices. Driving in Brussels is not for the lily-livered - think aggressive drivers, potholes, cut-throat traffic loops and parking hassles. Taxis are metered and expensive; the tax and tips are figured into the meter price. Generally, you'll find taxis at all three major train stations, around the Grand Place and at place Stéphanie on Ave Louise. You can also call for a taxi from anywhere in the city.
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bus
As there's no central transport hub for buses or trams, working out where to jump on is akin to finding a needle in a haystack. Pick up the STIB/MIVB's free transport map to help find your way around. Tram and bus stops have red-and-white signs. Premetro trams run mainly between Gare du Nord and Gare du Midi, travelling underneath the ruler-straight boulevard known consecutively as Adolphe Max/Anspach/Maurice Lemonnier.
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car
Driving in Brussels can be test of anyone's patience. The slightest hiccup on either ring road brings traffic to a grinding halt and don't even consider leaving by car on congested Friday afternoon.
Parking poses the usual problems. Signs saying betalend parkeren/stationnement payant mean that it's paid street parking. Green ticket machines issue one/two-hour tickets (two hours is the maximum). Two central car parks are Inno Parking (Rue du Damier) and Parking 58 (Rue de l'Évêque).
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taxi
Taxis are metered, expensive, and cabbies have a reputation for aggressive driving and argumentative behaviour. Taxes and tips are officially included in the meter price so you should ignore requests for extra service charges. Fares are calculated starting with a basic day/night rate, with an extra tariff per kilometre within/outside the Brussels region. You'll find taxis near all three central train stations as well as outside the Hôtel Amigo near the Grand Place and at Place Stéphanie on Ave Louise.
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bicycle
Cycling in central Brussels is not for the faint-hearted: intolerant drivers, slippery cobblestones and tram tracks are all potential hazards. That said, there are some bike lanes (usually painted red and marked with white lines) and paths (separated from the traffic), but these tend to be on the outskirts of town where there's a bit more room.
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train
Trains are of minimal use for getting around in Brussels. For travellers, their primary use is getting between the city centre and Brussels National Airport.
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underground rail
Brussels' metro system opened in 1965. Metro stations are marked by signs with a white 'M' on a blue background. There are three lines: Line 1A ((yellow) goes from Roi Baudouin station to Herrmann-Debroux; Line 1B (red) runs from Erasme to Stockel; and Line 2 (orange) is a loop that joins Simonis with Clémenceau, basically following the Petit Ring. There's a train roughly every 10 or 15 minutes. Keep an eye out for artworks while in the metro stations.
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Disabled Travellers
Belgium is not exactly a world leader when it comes to accessibility for travellers with mobility problems. All train stations have wheelchair ramps, however, and many museums and theatres also have wheelchair access. Many metro stations have Braille plaques at the entrance, but the only central station that's accessible by wheelchair is Arts-Loi. Whether travelling by train or visiting a theatre or museum, always give advanced notice of the need to accommodate a wheelchair.
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