Azerbaijan's accommodation scene is undergoing a steady transformation as many of the cheap ( US$2.00 - US$5.00 ) but very dreary rural Soviet-era hotels close down and new private mini-hotels ( US$10.00 to US$50.00 ) start to appear. In Baku the transformation is much more dramatic, with a series of new international business hotels ( US$200.00 plus) complimented by comfortable mini-hotels ( US$80.00 - US$140.00 ) which are mushrooming through the old town. However even in Baku it's still possible to find a bed for under US$10.00 if you really search. At least for now.

Although some businesses actually happily accept US dollars, technically all transactions must be conducted in manats. Beware that the New Manat, introduced in 2006, is worth 5,000 old manats so an old 'shirvan' is worth 2 new manat. Travellers cheques can only be reliably exchanged at the International Bank of Azerbaijan but changing cash is remarkably easy in Baku, with a very small split between buy and sell rates, especially for US dollars. Baku also has ATMs and several businesses in the capital accept credit cards - which are useless everywhere else in the country. Outside the largest cities, cash is generally the only thing you can use.

A tip of 10% is expected in upmarket restaurants. Bargaining is normal practice in markets.

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