Buenos Aires: Getting there & around

Orientation

Although Greater Buenos Aires has swollen to 13 million people, most tourists stick to the Capital Federal, which is home to three million porteños (locals) and is divided into 48 barrios (neighborhoods). Once you get your head around the barrios and sub-neighborhoods that complicate the city's layout, Buenos Aires becomes easier to navigate. The Microcentro, or downtown area, includes shopping and entertainment precincts along Avenidas Corrientes, Córdoba and Santa Fe, and the pedestrian-only streets of Florida and Lavalle. The Avenida 9 de Julio is an unmistakable point of reference; its 16 lanes of traffic run from San Telmo in the south to Retiro up north, with a sky-piercing white obelisk at its center. The dockside barrio of Puerto Madero runs north-south along Río de la Plata and is pedestrian friendly.

At the eastern end of Avenida de Mayo, one of the Microcentro's main east-west boulevards, is Plaza de Mayo. It attracts a bountiful blend of tourists, students and political activists, and is surrounded by many important buildings including the famous Presidential Palace (Casa Rosada) and the main cathedral. South of the Microcentro you'll find the faded architecture and cobbled streets of colonial San Telmo, home of Buenos Aires' sultry tango, and La Boca, the tough port barrio and colorful working class heart of Buenos Aires. Uptown is the ritzy enclave of Recoleta, while tree-lined Palermo has parks aplenty and Buenos Aires' hottest bars and ethnic eats.

Getting There

• boat

  Buenos Aires has a regular ferry service to/from Colonia and Montevideo, both in Uruguay. Ferries leave from the Buquebus terminal at the corner of Avs Antártida Argentina and Córdoba. There are many more launches in the busy summer season.

• train

  Retiro train station can get you to just about anywhere in Argentina and the surrounding region.

  For getting around the city, the only train that really comes in handy is the Mitre line (running between Retiro and Tigre), which makes getting from Retiro to Las Cañitas or Belgrano's Barrio China (China Town) a snap.

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Getting Around

• bus

  Buenos Aires has a huge and complex bus system. To get to know it better, you'll have to buy a Guia T (sold at any newsstand), but try to find the pocket version for US$1.00 . Look at the grids to find out where you're going, and find a matching bus number. Most routes (but not all) run 24hrs.

  If you're heading out of town, you'll probably go via BA's modern Retiro bus station. It's three floors high and has slots for 75 buses. The bottom floor is for cargo shipments and luggage storage, the top for purchasing and the middle for everything else. There's an information booth that provides bus information; they'll also help you with the local bus system. Other services include a tourist office, telephone offices (some with Internet access), restaurants, cafes and dozens of small stores.

• car

  Anyone considering driving in Buenos Aires should know that most local drivers are reckless, aggressive and even willfully dangerous. They'll ignore speed limits, road signs, road lines and often traffic signals, tailgating you mercilessly and honking before signals turn green. Buses are a nightmare to reckon with, and parking can be a pain. Public transport will often get you anywhere faster, cheaper and with much less stress.

  If you still want to rent a car, expect to pay around US$35.00 to US$50.00 per day (it may be worth making a reservation with an international agency in your home country, as these can sometimes guarantee stable rates). You'll need to be at least 21 years of age and have a valid driver's license. You'll probably need to present a credit card and your passport as well.

• taxi

  Taxis are reasonably priced for shorter cross-city journeys. BA's ubiquitous black-and-yellow taxis ply the city day and night. Step up to a curb and throw your arm up - you rarely have to wait. Ranks are not often used.

• bicycle

  Buenos Aires is not a great city to cycle around. Traffic is dangerous and less than respectful towards cyclists; the biggest vehicle wins the right of way, and bikes are low on the totem pole. Still, some spots cry out for two-wheeled exploration, such as Palermo's parks and the Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur; on weekends and some weekdays you can rent bikes at these places. You can also join city bike tours, which include both a bicycle and a guide.

• underground rail

  The Subte is BA's underground system. Built in 1913, it is also South America's oldest subway. Usually hot and crowded, it's an efficient and easy way to get around.

  It consists of lines A, B, C, D and E; new lines and upgrades are always being planned.

  Single-ride magnetic cards cost about 0.70 and can be purchased at boleterías (ticket booths) in all Subte stations. To save time standing in queues, buy a five- or 10-ride card. At some stations, the tracks separate the platforms, so be sure of your direction before passing through the turnstiles. Trains operate from around 05:00 to 22:00 Monday to Saturday, and 08:00 to 22:00 on Sundays. Service is frequent on weekdays, slower on weekends.

• Disabled Travellers

  Travelers with disabilities will find things somewhat difficult. In particular, those in wheelchairs will quickly realize that narrow, busy and uneven sidewalks are difficult to negotiate. Crossing streets is also a problem; not every corner has ramps and Argentine drivers don't have much patience for slower pedestrians, disabled or not. Nevertheless, Argentines with disabilities do get around; buses called piso bajo lower to provide wheelchair lifts.

  Most hotels do not have wheelchair accessible rooms; doors are narrow and there is little space to move around inside - bathrooms at midrange and budget hotels are notoriously small. For truly accessible rooms, you'll have better luck in pricier hotels.

  In Buenos Aires, Movidisc (tel: 4328 6921; www.movidisc-web.com.ar) offers private transport and day tours in vans fully equipped for wheelchair users. If you're taking a tour with another agency, Movidisc can provide the transport, provided you ask your tour company to arrange it with them.

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