Le Gallois

The name says it all - Le Gallois is French for 'the Welshman', and the Welsh owner-chef Padrig Jones has made his name by giving a Continental twist to the best of Welsh produce. An unfussy dining room of pale cream walls, polished-walnut tables and starched-linen napkins makes sure the focus is on the food - the menu of half a dozen starters and half a dozen main courses changes with the seasons, but signature dishes include confit of rabbit with roast langoustine, tomato and basil risotto, and roast monkfish and crispy noodles with claret sauce and Asian pesto. This is the place for a very special dinner or, if you want to sample some very special cooking without breaking the bank, an extremely good-value set lunch.