Things to do in Northwest Vietnam
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Cat Cat Village
The nearest village within walking distance is Cat Cat, 3km south of Sapa. Like everywhere in this area, it's a steep and very beautiful hike down; if you're too exhausted or unfit to hike back up, there are plenty of xe om ready and willing to cart you back to your hotel.
reviewed
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Delta Restaurant
A stylish and atmospheric place, Delta Restaurant is renowned for its pizzas, which are the most authentic in town, though the pasta is pretty decent too. Wash it all down with a drop of Aussie red.
reviewed
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Viet Emotion
This stylish, intimate little place has a bistro feel about it, with bottles of wine hanging from the ceiling, plus a fireplace. Try the trekking omelette, home-made soup, or something from the tapas menu like gambas al ajillo (garlic prawns). If the weather really sets in there are books and magazines to browse and games including chess.
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Baguette & Chocolat
If you’re craving a genuine European-style cafe, head to this elegant converted villa for a fine breakfast (sets cost 60,000d to 78,000d), tartine, baguette or a slab of gateau. There are also good salads, pasta and Asian and Vietnamese dishes, and the ‘picnic kits’ are a smart option for trekkers.
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Ta Phin Village
Another popular hike is to Ta Phin village, home to Red Dzao and about 10km from Sapa. Most people take a xe om to a starting point about 8km from Sapa, and then make a 14km loop through the area, passing through Black H’mong and Red Dzao villages.
reviewed
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Thang Co a Quynh
For a very local experience, Thang Co A Quynh is about as hard-core as it gets, as it only serves horse (yes, and including plenty of boiled blood and offal) and rice wine, and you sit on the floor.
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Old French Prison & Museum
The Old French Prison & Museum in Son La was once the site of a French penal colony where anticolonial revolutionaries were incarcerated. It was destroyed by the infamous ‘off-loading’ of unused ammunition by US warplanes that were returning to their bases after bombing raids, but it has been partially restored. Rebuilt turrets and watchtowers stand guard over the remains of cells, inner walls and a famous lone surviving peach tree. The tree, which blooms with traditional Tet flowers, was planted in the compound by To Hieu, a former inmate from the 1940s. To Hieu has subsequently been immortalised, with various landmarks now named after him.
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Bunker of General Giap
A beautiful body of water, Pa Khoang Lake is 17km east of Dien Bien Phu on the road from Son La, and 4km off the highway. About a 15km drive around the lake’s edge, or an hour’s boat ride plus a 3km forest walk, is the recently restored bunker of General Giap, the Vietnamese commander of the Dien Bien Phu campaign. The network of bunkers, tunnels, sentry boxes and huts here could be better set up for visitors, but make an interesting diversion for those attracted by Vietnam’s legendary military tactician.
reviewed
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Dien Bien Phu Museum
The site of the 1954 battle is now marked by several monuments, including the Dien Bien Phu Museum, which contains a startlingly eclectic collection of exhibits. Alongside the usual weaponry and guns there’s a bathtub that belonged to Colonel de Castries, a bicycle capable of carrying 330kg of ordnance, and plenty of photographs and documents, some with English translations.
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Vua Meo
The outlandish Vua Meo is a palace constructed in a kind of bizarre ‘oriental baroque’ architectural style on the northern edge of town. Dating from 1921, it was built by the French to keep the Flower H’mong chief Hoang A Tuong happy and looks like a cross between an exotic church and a French chateau. A museum may open here some time in the future.
reviewed
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A1 Hill
There are tanks and a monument to Viet Minh casualties on the site of the former French position, known to the French as Eliane and to the Vietnamese as A1 Hill, where bitter fighting took place. The elaborate trenches at the heart of the French defences have also been re-created.
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Tavan Restaurant
This hotel restaurant has a good rep, and is the place for a ser ious splurge. The Parisian chef has been here for years, and while there are Asian dishes on the menu it’s best to stick to European classics like the rack of lamb (US$20), raclette (US$28) or pasta (from US$4).
reviewed
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Hoang Yen Restaurant
The best place in town is undoubtedly Hoang Yen Restaurant opposite the Sao Mai Hotel, which has a great front terrace and a well-priced menu with good breakfast choices, fresh and dried noodle dishes, tasty pumpkin soup, cheap beer and Dalat wine.
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Gecko
This large enjoyable French-owned place resembles an auberge, with a rustic feel and a menu of flavoursome country cooking: try the boeuf bourguignon or the ‘gecko’ soup (with potato, bacon and cheese). There’s a bar area and a little park-facing front terrace.
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Tau Bar
With an exterior tagged with graffiti and an interior of unforgiving concrete this bunker-cum-bar is as urban as it gets in Sapa. There’s a bass-heavy sound system, a DIY jukebox that’s strong on hip hop, and always a crowd around the pool tables.
reviewed
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Red Dragon Pub
Looking like something transplanted from the Pembrokeshire coast, this genteel place resembles a Welsh tearoom, with plenty of knick-knacks on show. It’s good for a quiet drink, and serves filling pub grub including shepherd’s pie.
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Ly Ly Restaurant
It may not be obvious from the name, but this little eatery has morphed into the town's first and only Indian restaurant. Curries, dahl, nan and lassies, it's possible to indulge in a Mumbai master class here.
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Pineapple
A stylish Sapaesque cafe run by Bui Duc Thinh, a fluent English speaker and former guide. Try the full English breakfast (77,000d), or a salad, pizza or baguette. Shakes and juices are also available.
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Hmong Sisters
This bar with pool tables could be half-decent if the staff were half-polite or, as was the case when we were there, the owner stopped asking people to move tables to accommodate his friends.
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Red Dao House
Smart new restaurant in a mock hill-tribe house with a nice front terrace. There are set breakfasts, and plenty of Vietnamese seafood and chicken dishes. Staff wear Dzao-style costume here.
reviewed
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Topas Travel
A Sapa-based operator that has high-quality trekking, biking and village encounters. Many options include a stay in their fab Eco Lodge. Topas also employs many guides from minority groups.
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Long Phuong Restaurant
This restaurant is the place to sample some local minority dishes. Consider the sour mang dang (bamboo shoots) soup, and wash it down with sticky rice dipped in sesame-seed salt.
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Buffalo Bell
A good option on the main drag, this place has a slim street terrace, take-away cakes, and a menu that includes delicious, filling baguettes and Italian food – try the penne arrabiata.
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Bombay
Indian food in Sapa? Certainly – all your favourite curries, dhal, naan and vegie dishes are present and correct here, though the restaurant lacks a little in terms of atmosphere.
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Bunker Headquarters of Colonel Christian de Castries
Across the river the bunker headquarters of the French commander, Colonel Christian de Castries, has been re-created, and there are old French tanks and artillery pieces close by.
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