Ho Chi Minh City Getting there & around

Getting around

Boat

It’s easy to hire a motorised 5m-long boat to tour the Saigon River. There’s always someone hanging around looking to charter a boat. Ask them to bring it to you (they can easily do this), rather than you going to the boat.

The price should be around US$6 per hour for a small boat or US$10 to US$20 for a larger, faster craft. Interesting destinations for short trips include Cholon (along Ben Nghe Channel) and the zoo (along Thi Nghe Channel). Note that both channels are fascinating, but filthy – raw sewage is discharged into the water. Tourists regard the channels as a major attraction, but the government considers them an eyesore and has attempted to move residents out. The channels will eventually be filled in and the water diverted into underground sewerage pipes.

For longer trips up the Saigon River, it is worth chartering a fast speedboat from Saigon Tourist. Although these cost at least US$20 per hour, you’ll save money, as a cheap boat takes at least five times longer for the same journey. Although cruising the Saigon River can be interesting, it pales in comparison with the splendour of the canals in the Mekong Delta.

Since you hire boats by the hour, some will go slowly because they know the meter is running. You might want to set a time limit at the start.

Ferries across the Saigon River leave from the dock at the foot of ÐL Ham Nghi and run every half-hour or so between 4.30am and 10.30pm.

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Car & motorcycle

Car & motorbike

Travel agencies, hotels and cafés are all in the car-rental business. Most vehicles are relatively recent Japanese- or Korean-made machines – everything from subcompacts to minibuses. Not long ago, classic American cars (complete with tail-fins and impressive chrome fenders) were popular as ‘wedding taxis’. Prestige these days, however, means a white Toyota. Nevertheless, some of the old vehicles can be hired for excursions in and around HCMC. You’ll also see the occasional French-built Renault or Citroën. The former Soviet Union chips in with Ladas, Moskviches and Volgas.

If you’re brave you can rent a motorbike and really earn your ‘I Survived Saigon’ T-shirt. Many say this is the fastest and easiest way to get around the city – and to the hospital, if you don’t know what you’re doing. Even if you’re an experienced biker, make sure you’ve spent some time observing traffic patterns before putting yourself in it.

Motorbike rentals are ubiquitous in places where tourists tend to congregate – the Pham Ngu Lao area is as good as any. Ask at the cafés. A 100cc motorbike can be rented for US$6 to US$10 per day and your passport may be kept as collateral. Before renting one make sure it’s rideable, and if you’re wise you’ll also rent a helmet (about US$1 per day).

Saigon Scooter Centre (848 7816; www.saigonscootercentre.com; 25/7 Ð Cuu Long, Tan Binh district; 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) is a reliable source for restored classic Vespa and Lambretta scooters, which are also rented out (as well as a range of other well-maintained bikes). Daily rental rates start from US$10 and discounts are offered for longer rentals. For an extra fee it’ll provide a one-way service, with a pick-up of the bikes anywhere in Vietnam.

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Bus & tram

Bus

Few tourists make use of the city buses; they are safer than cyclos, though less aesthetic. Now that HCMC’s People’s Committee has resolved to phase out cyclos, some money is finally being put into the badly neglected public-transport system.

At present, there are only a few bus routes, though more undoubtedly will be added. No decent bus map is available and bus stops are mostly unmarked, so it’s worth summarising the main bus lines.

Saigon-Cholon buses depart from Me Linh Sq (by the Saigon River) and continue along ÐL Tran Hung Dao to Binh Tay Market in Cholon, then return along the same route. The buses running this route have air-con and video movies and the driver is well dressed! All this for 3000d. Buy your ticket on board from the attendant.

Mien Dong–Mien Tay buses (5000d) depart from Mien Dong bus station (northeast HCMC), pass through Cholon and terminate at Mien Tay bus station on the western edge of town.

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Local transport

Taxi

Metered taxis cruise the streets, but it’s often easier to phone for one. Several companies in HCMC offer metered taxis and charge almost exactly the same rates. The flagfall is around 12, 000d to 15, 000d for the first kilometre. Most rides in the city centre cost less than 30, 000d. Note that faulty meters are much less common here than in Hanoi.

The following contact details are for HCMC’s main taxi companies.

Ben Thanh Taxi (842 2422)

Mai Linh Taxi (822 6666)

Red Taxi (844 6677)

Saigon Taxi (842 4242)

Vina Taxi (811 1111)

Vinasum Taxi (827 7178)

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Bicycle

For brave, pedal-loving souls, a bicycle can be a great, if slow, way to get around the city. Bikes can be rented from a number of places – many hotels, cafés and travel agencies can help you.

A good place to buy a decent (ie imported) bicycle is at the shops near the New World Hotel on Ð Le Thanh Ton, a short walk from the Pham Ngu Lao area.

Bicycle parking lots are usually just roped-off sections of pavement. For about 2000d you can safely leave your bicycle (theft is a big problem). Your bicycle will have a number written on the seat in chalk or stapled to the handlebars and you’ll be given a reclaim chit – don’t lose it! If you come back and your bicycle is gone, the parking lot is supposedly required to replace it.

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