Sights in Ho Chi Minh City
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Reunification Palace
Time has stood still here since 30 April 1975, a slightly scary thought. The striking modern architecture and the slightly eerie feeling you get as you walk through its deserted halls make Reunification Palace one of the most fascinating sights in HCMC. The building was once the symbol of the South Vietnamese government, which hundreds of thousands of Vietnamese and 58,183 Americans died trying to save.
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Giac Lam Pagoda
Believed to be the oldest pagoda in greater HCMC, Giac Lam Pagoda dates from 1744. It’s a fantastically atmospheric place full of gilded statues, colourful wall panels (depicting among other things the path to enlightenment as well as the tortures awaiting those condemned to hell) with one of the country’s most impressive stupas (32m tall). For the sick and elderly, the pagoda is a minor pilgrimage sight, as it contains a bronze bell that, when rung, is believed to answer the prayers posted by petitioners. Home to several monks, the Buddhist pagoda also incorporates aspects of Taoism and Confucianism. It is well worth the trip out here from the centre and is one of the ci…
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Fine Arts Museum
A classic yellow-and-white building with a modest Chinese influence, the Fine Arts Museum, houses one of the more interesting collections in Vietnam, ranging from lacquer- and enamel-ware to contemporary oil paintings by Vietnamese and foreign artists. If that doesn’t sound enticing, just come to see the huge hall with its beautifully tiled floors. The 1st floor includes a display of officially accepted contemporary art: most of it is just kitsch or desperate attempts to master abstract art, but occasionally something brilliant is displayed here. Much of the recent art is for sale and prices are reasonable.
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Mariamman Hindu Temple
This is the only Hindu temple still in use in HCMC and is a little piece of southern India in the centre of town. Though there are only a small number of Hindus in HCMC, this temple is also considered sacred by many ethnic Vietnamese and ethnic Chinese. Indeed, it is reputed to have miraculous powers. The temple was built at the end of the 19th century and dedicated to the Hindu goddess Mariamman.
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Cho Quan Church
Built by the French about 100 years ago, Cho Quan Church is one of the largest churches in HCMC. Jesus on the altar has a neon halo, though the best reason to come here is for the view from the belfry (a steep climb). The church is between ÐL Tran Hung Dao and Ð Nguyen Trai. Sunday masses are held at 5am, 6.30am, 8.30am, 4.30pm and 6pm.
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Le Van Duyet Temple
Dedicated to Marshal Le Van Duyet (1763–1831), this temple is also his burial place, alongside his wife. The marshal was a South Vietnamese general and viceroy who helped put down the Tay Son Rebellion and reunify Vietnam. When the Nguyen dynasty came to power in 1802, he was elevated by Emperor Gia Long to the rank of Marshal. Le Van Duyet fell out of favour with Gia Long’s successor, Minh Mang, who tried him posthumously and desecrated his grave. Emperor Thieu Tri, who succeeded Minh Mang, restored the tomb, thus fulfilling a prophecy of its destruction and restoration. Le Van Duyet was considered a national hero in the South before 1975, but is disliked by the commun…
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Xa Loi Pagoda
Famed as the repository of a sacred relic of the Buddha, Xa Loi Pagoda was built in 1956. In August 1963 truckloads of armed men under the command of President Ngo Dinh Diem’s brother, Ngo Dinh Nhu, attacked Xa Loi Pagoda, which had become a centre of opposition towards the Diem government. The pagoda was ransacked and 400 monks and nuns, including the country’s 80-year-old Buddhist patriarch, were arrested. This raid and others elsewhere helped solidify opposition among Buddhists to the regime, a crucial factor in the US decision to support the coup against Diem. This pagoda was also the site of several self-immolations by monks protesting against the Diem regime and the…
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Jade Emperor Pagoda
Built in 1909 by the Cantonese (Quang Dong) Congregation, the Jade Emperor Pagoda is a real gem among Chinese temples. It is one of the most spectacularly colourful pagodas in HCMC, filled with statues of phantasmal divinities and grotesque heroes. The pungent smoke of burning joss sticks fills the air, obscuring the exquisite woodcarvings decorated with gilded Chinese characters. The roof is covered with elaborate tile work, while the statues, which represent characters from both the Buddhist and Taoist traditions, are made of reinforced papier-mâché. The pagoda is dedicated to the Emperor of Jade, the supreme Taoist god.
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Nghia An Hoi Quan Pagoda
Built by the Chaozhou Chinese Congregation, Nghia An Hoi Quan Pagoda is noteworthy for its gilded woodwork. A large carved wooden boat hangs over the entrance, and inside to the left of the doorway is an enormous representation of Quan Cong’s red horse with its groom. The great general Quan Cong himself occupies a position in a glass case behind the main altar, with his assistants flanking him on both sides. Nghia An Hoi Quan lets its hair down on the 14th day of the first lunar month when various dances are staged in front of the pagoda, with offerings made to the spirits.
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Presidential Receiving Room
The ground-floor room with the boat-shaped table was often used for conferences. Upstairs in the Presidential Receiving Room - the one with the red chairs in it - the South Vietnamese president received foreign delegations. He sat behind the desk; the chairs with dragons carved into the arms were used by his assistants. The chair facing the desk was reserved for foreign ambassadors. The room with gold-coloured chairs and curtains was used by the vice president.
You can sit in the former president's chair and have your photo taken.
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People’s Committee Building
HCMC’s gingerbread People’s Committee Building, one of the city’s most prominent landmarks, is the home of the Ho Chi Minh City People’s Committee. Built between 1901 and 1908, the Hôtel de Ville is situated at the north-western end of ÐL Nguyen Hue, facing a river. The former hotel is notable for its gardens, ornate facade and elegant interior lit with crystal chandeliers. It’s one of the most photographed buildings in Vietnam. At night, the exterior is usually covered with thousands of geckos feasting on insects.
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Binh Soup Shop
It might seem strange to introduce a noodle-soup restaurant as a sight, but there is more to Binh Soup Shop than meets the eye. The Binh Soup Shop was the secret headquarters of the VC in Saigon. It was from here that the VC planned its attack on the US embassy and other places in Saigon during the Tet Offensive of 1968. One has to wonder how many US soldiers ate here, completely unaware that the staff were all VC infiltrators. By the way, the pho makes it a worthwhile stop for lunch or breakfast.
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Giac Vien Pagoda
Architecturally similar to Giac Lam, this striking pagoda also shares its atmosphere of scholarly serenity, although Giac Vien is less visited and in a more rural setting near Dam Sen Lake in District 11. The pagoda was founded by Hai Tinh Giac Vien in the late 1700's. It is said that Emperor Gia Long, who died in 1819, used to worship at Giac Vien. The pagoda remains a marvellously preserved artefact from the past, boasting some 100 lavish carvings of various divinities.
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Notre Dame Cathedral
Built between 1877 and 1883, Notre Dame Cathedral is set in the heart of HCMC’s government quarter. The cathedral faces Ð Dong Khoi. It is neo-Romanesque with two 40m-high square towers tipped with iron spires, which dominate the square here. In front of the cathedral (in the centre of the square bounded by the main post office) is a statue of the Virgin Mary. If the front gates are locked, try the door on the side of the building that faces Reunification Palace.
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Military Museum
Just a short distance from the History Museum is a small Military Museum devoted to Ho Chi Minh’s campaign to liberate the south. Inside is of minor interest, but some US, Chinese and Soviet war material is on display outdoors, including a Cessna A-37 of the South Vietnamese Air Force and a US-built F-5E Tiger with the 20mm nose gun still loaded. The tank on display is one of the tanks that broke into the grounds of Reunification Palace on 30 April 1975.
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Ho Chi Minh Museum
This museum is in the old customs house in District 4, just across Ben Nghe Channel from the quayside end of ÐL Ham Nghi. Nicknamed the ‘Dragon House’ (Nha Rong), it was built in 1863. The link between Ho Chi Minh and the museum building is tenuous: 21-year-old Ho, having signed on as a stoker and galley boy on a French freighter, left Vietnam from here in 1911 and thus began 30 years of exile in France, the Soviet Union, China and elsewhere.
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Water Puppetry
Although it originates in the north, the art of water puppetry has migrated to HCMC in the last decade - in part because of its popularity with tourists. There are two venues to see water puppets in HCMC: On the grounds of the War Remnants Museum and at the History Museum. Schedules vary, but shows tend to start when a group of five or more customers has assembled. Expect a 20-minute show, performed by truly skilled and imaginative puppeteers.
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Cholon Mosque
The clean lines and lack of ornamentation of the Cholon Mosque contrast starkly with nearby Chinese and Vietnamese Buddhist pagodas. In the courtyard is a pool for ritual ablutions. Note the tiled niche in the wall ( mihrab ) indicating the direction of prayer, which is towards Mecca. The mosque was built by Tamil Muslims in 1935, but since 1975 it has served the Malaysian and Indonesian Muslim communities.
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Phuoc n Hoi Quan Pagoda
Built in 1902 by the Fujian Congregation, Phuoc An Hoi Quan Pagoda is one of the most beautifully ornamented pagodas in HCMC. Of special interest are the many small porcelain figures, the elaborate brass ritual objects and the fine woodcarvings on the altars, walls, columns and hanging lanterns. From the exterior, look out for the ceramic scenes, each containing innumerable small figurines, which decorate the roof.
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Phung Son Pagoda
This pagoda is extremely rich in statuary made of bronze, wood, ceramic and beaten copper. It’s peopled with a mix of gilded and beautifully carved statues (some painted). This Vietnamese Buddhist pagoda was built between 1802 and 1820 on the site of structures from the Funan period, dating back at least to the early centuries of Christianity. Other foundations of Funanese buildings have also been discovered here.
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Saigon Central Mosque
Built by South Indian Muslims in 1935 on the site of an earlier mosque, the Saigon Central Mosque is an immaculately clean and well-kept island of calm in the middle of the bustling Dong Khoi area. In front of the sparkling white-and-blue structure, with its four non-functional minarets, is a pool for the ritual ablutions required by Islamic law before prayers. Take off your shoes before entering the sanctuary.
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Ong Bon Pagoda
The Ong Bon Pagoda, built by the Fujian Congregation, is an atmospheric pagoda full of gilded carvings and the ever-present smoke of burning incense. It’s dedicated to Ong Bon, the guardian who presides over happiness and wealth. In the hope of securing good fortune from the deity, believers burn fake paper money in the pagoda’s furnace, located across the courtyard from the pagoda entrance.
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Ton Duc Thang Museum
This small, seldom-visited museum is dedicated to Ton Duc Thang, Ho Chi Minh’s successor as president of Vietnam, who was born in Long Xuyen, An Giang province, in 1888. He died in office in 1980. Photos and displays illustrate his role in the Vietnamese Revolution, including a couple of very lifelike exhibits that represent the time he spent imprisoned on Con Son Island.
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Botanic Gardens
One of the first projects undertaken by the French after they established Cochinchina as a colony was to found these lush gardens. Though once one of the finest such gardens in Asia, they’re now more a pleasant place for a stroll under giant tropical trees. The emphasis is on the fun fair, with kids’ rides, a fun house, miniature train, house of mirrors and more.
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Cha Tam Church
President Ngo Dinh Diem and his brother Ngo Dinh Nhu took refuge in Cha Tam Church on 2 November 1963, after fleeing the Presidential Palace during a coup attempt. When their efforts to contact loyal military officers (of whom there was almost none) failed, Diem and Nhu agreed to surrender unconditionally and they revealed where they were hiding.
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