Spring Hotel (No 2)

In a quiet, leafy street beside St Joseph's Cathedral, the stylish Spring Hotel No 2 is about the best lower mid-range choice in Hanoi. The family atmosphere, central location just a short stagger to trendy Pho Nha Tho and surprisingly modish rooms mean it could wind up being your favourite hotel in Vietnam.

There are three rooms per floor, and due to the corner location each has a balcony. All are stylishly decorated and have wooden floors, high ceilings, overhead fans (vital if, like me, you can't stand sleeping with the air-con on), and good-sized bath tubs. Those at the front are the biggest, with two firm double beds, a small kitchenette and wonderful views of St Joseph's from the front balcony. Other rooms are smaller, but the back rooms, with their tiny balcony looking down on the slow-moving neighbourhood below, were a bargain. Service was efficient and not at all aggressive, and the only downside we could see was that if you're on a higher floor you'll have to climb about 100 steps. Recommended.