Iglesia de la Candelaria

Lonely Planet review

Seven blocks east of Plaza Bolívar amidst an area steeped in Spanish flavor, the church Iglesia de la Candelaria has richly gilded monumental retables covering the chancel's walls. The central retable dates from about 1760, while the lateral ones are modern replicas.

But the holiest place in the church for Venezuelans is doubtless the tomb of José Gregorio Hernández, in the first chapel off the right-hand aisle. Though not canonized, José Gregorio is considered more important than many official saints whose images adorn the altars of this and other churches. Yes, ask Venezuelans to name their most important saint and most will answer 'José Gregorio Hernández.' Indeed, the surprisingly well-to-do image of this treasured saint is omnipresent in private homes, shrines and religious stalls. Look for the guy with a black felt hat, well-tailored suit and Charlie Chaplin moustache. It's hardly the usual get-up of saints - but don't worry, it's him. In reality, Hernández doesn't appear on the Vatican's list of saints, though he was elevated to venerable status in 1985. But this doesn't deter his faithful followers.

Born into a humble Andean family in 1864, Hernández studied medical sciences in Caracas and Paris before embarking on a brilliant career as university professor and doctor to the president. He was a passionately religious person, and distinguished himself by treating the poor without charge. He tried to dedicate himself to a monastic life on various occasions, but always returned to plough his energy into caring for the poor.

Hernández died in a car accident in 1919, and a cult soon emerged around him and spread throughout the country and beyond. Countless miracles are attributed to him, including numerous healings. Hernández was even adopted as one of the principal deities of the mysterious María Lionza cult.