Shopping in Uzbekistan
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A
Tim Abdulla Khan
For carpets, you couldn't ask for a better shopping atmosphere than at the silk weaving and carpet centre in the late 16th-century Tim Abdulla Khan, near Taqi-Telpaq Furushon Bazaar (a tim was a general market). They are not pushy and will openly inform you on what's handmade and what's machine-made. You can watch silk-carpet weavers in action here.
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Oloy Bazaar
This heavily policed market lacks the character of Chorsu, but will serve you well if your hotel is in the Amir Timur maydoni area.
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Human House
Human House not only has a good selection of carpets, skull caps, suzani and other textiles from various Uzbek provinces, but also doubles as one of Tashkent's most fashionable boutiques, featuring modern clothing infused with Uzbek styles and designs. They also stage quarterly fashion shows to exhibit the work of their hand-picked designers. Human House's Unesco-supported latest project, dubbed Human Made, is a silk-making and weaving school/factory on the outskirts of town.
'We are going to build our own generation of weavers to help revive the craft of textiles in Tashkent', says commercial director Dina Malkova. The factory will offer tours similar to those given by…
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Abulkasim Medressa
The Abulkasim Medressa, close to the Oliy Majlis in Navoi Park, has been turned into an artisans' school and workshop where local painters, lacquer workers and potters ply and teach their craft. It's a great place to buy the fruits of their labour, plus souvenirs like rugs, suzani and ceramics brought in from the regions.
Up on the 2nd floor, Andijon native Madraimov Abdumalik Abduraimovich fashions fine traditional Uzbek musical instruments and can wax eloquent in English about the nuances of the dutar (two-stringed guitar), tanbur (long-necked string instruments) and rubab (six-stringed mandolin).
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D
Khiva Silk Carpet Workshop
At the Khiva Silk Carpet Workshop, apprentice carpet makers hand-weave silk rugs patterned after Khiva-style majolica tiles, doors and miniature paintings. There's lots of natural-dyed silk hanging around and you can watch women work the looms. Ask the personable English-speaking manager Jalol for a tour. They have a second workshop in the Kutlimurodinok Medressa, where there are other handicraft workshops as well.
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Tezykovka
Tezykovka is the local name for this vast 'flea market'. Also known as Yangiobod Market, this sombre sea of junk - 'anything from nails to nukes' as one resident put it - is located in the Khamza district, and reached by bus 30 from the Mustaqillik metro. Keep a close watch on your purse or wallet in this or any bazaar.
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E
Turkuaz Hypermart
The biggest supermarket in downtown Tashkent is on the ground floor of Turkuaz Hypermart, at the west end of Navoi across the street from the mothballed Hotel Chorsu. This is also probably your best bet for Western brand-name clothing and travel accessories like money belts and rucksacks.
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Samarkand Ceramics Workshop
There are souvenir shops and craft workshops of varying quality at all the big sights, in particular at the Rukhobod Mausoleum and the Registan. At the Registan look out for the Samarkand Ceramics Workshop, one of the few places still practicing the Samarkand school of ceramic making.
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Suzani & Textiles
Serious suzani and textile collectors should head to Akhbar House for a glimpse of owner Akhbar's fantastic collection. Much of it isn't even for sale but he may even be willing to part with gems from his personal collection for the right price.
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Unesco Carpet Weaving Shop
You can watch silk-carpet weavers in action at Unesco Carpet Weaving Shop. It no longer has anything to do with Unesco (which helped them launch in 2001), but uniquely produces only Bukhara designs. Call ahead to book a tour in English.
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TsUM
They don't have the atmosphere of the bazaars, but for the best prices and a surprisingly good selection of silk by the metre, try the big department stores (univermag) - TsUM in the centre and Turkuaz Hypermart.
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Bukhara Artisan Development Centre
At the Bukhara Artisan Development Centre you can watch artisans at work on a variety of handicrafts including silk-embroidered tapestries, miniature paintings, jewellery boxes and chess sets.
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Siob Bazaar
Around and behind Bibi-Khanym, the frenetic, colourful main farmers market, called Siob Bazaar, is great for vegetarians and photographers, and may reward silk and souvenir hunters as well.
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Craft Stalls
The main drag for craft stalls is the narrow alley that runs west from Islom-Hoja Minaret.
Other souvenir and craft shops are wedged into many Ichon-Qala attractions.
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Ippodrom
In warm weather, a big goods bazaar sprawls by the Ippodrom. The biggest day by far is on Sunday. The Ippodrom is 2km southwest from Sobir Rahimov metro.
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Mir supermarket
Around Broadway, you can get Western-brand food and toiletries at the large and modern Mir supermarket .
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Khiva Suzani Centre
This centre churns out wonderful handmade silk and adras (half-cotton, half-silk) creations.
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Mirobod Bazaar
A fiesta of fruit bathing in the teal-green glow of its giant, octagonal flying saucer of a roof.
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Knizhny Mir
Has Tashkent's best map selection along with a smattering of English-language classics.
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GUM
You can also find silk at GUM, but silk buffs are better off going to Urgut.
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Mansur Nurillaev
Accomplished miniaturist Mansur Nurillaev is at the Rukhobod Mausoleum.
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Rakhimov Ceramics Studio
Rakhimov Ceramics Studio is as much museum as a ceramics shop.
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Samarkand-Bukhara Silk Carpets Showroom
Samarkand-Bukhara Silk Carpets has a Registan-based showroom.
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Yog' Du Bookshop
Sells picture books and maps of Bukhara and Uzbekistan.
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Jurabek
Jurabek sells beautiful old textiles.
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