Capitol

Lonely Planet review

It's definitely a toss-up when it comes to which is Washington's most iconic image, the Capitol or the White House. We're going to have to put on the Team Capitol jersey - there's just nothing quite like the sight of the towering 285ft cast-iron dome topped by the bronze Statue of Freedom, ornate fountains and marble Roman pillars set on sweeping lawns and flowering gardens that just screams this is DC.

The political center of the US government and geographic center of DC itself, the Capitol sits atop a high hill overlooking the National Mall and the wide avenues flaring out to the city beyond. It houses the legislative branch of Congress and is home to the Senate and the House of Representatives. The House has 435 members and the size of a state's population determines how many representatives it gets in the House. Representatives are elected to serve two-year terms. There are 100 members of the slightly more prestigious Senate - two for each state. Senators serve six-year terms.

Pierre L'Enfant chose this site for the Capitol in his original city plans of 1791, describing it as 'a pedestal waiting for a moment.' Construction of the Capitol began in 1793, as George Washington laid the cornerstone, anointing it with wine and oil in Masonic style. The story does not continue so smoothly, however. Midway through construction, in 1814 the British marched into DC and burnt the fledgling Capitol to the ground. The dispiriting destruction tempted people to abandon the DC experiment altogether, but the government finally rebuilt it. In 1855 the iron dome (weighing 9 million lb) was designed, replacing a smaller one; the House and Senate wings were added in 1857. Everyone breathed a sigh of relief when the final touch, the 19ft Freedom sculpture, was placed atop the dome in 1863.

Inside the grand halls and ornate chambers you really get a feel for the power-playing side of DC - the historical vibe is so strong it can be intoxicating. The centerpiece of the Capitol is the magnificent Rotunda (the area under the dome). A Constantino Brumidi frieze around the rim replays more than 400 years of American history. Look up into the eye of the dome for the Apotheosis of Washington , an allegorical fresco by the same artist. Other eye-catching creations include enormous oil paintings by John Trumbull, depicting scenes from the American Revolution.

The House of Representatives meets in the south wing, the Senate in the north wing. When either body is in session, a flag is raised above the appropriate wing. (Appropriately, the House office buildings - Rayburn, Longworth and Cannon - are on Independence Ave south of the Capitol; Senate buildings - Hart, Dirksen and Russell - are on Constitution Ave to the north.)

The Capitol closed for a few months following September 11, 2001 - it was suspected, along with the White House, to be the target for Flight 93 before it crashed in Pennsylvania. The US government made the decision to reopen the people's house to the people shortly after this, however, with extra security measures in place - you can no longer just wander in and check out the rotunda. The building is accessible by guided tours, conducted between 09:00 and 16:30 Monday through Saturday.

Visitors must obtain free tickets for tours on a first-come, first-served basis, at the Capitol Guide Service kiosk located along the curving sidewalk southwest of the Capitol (near the intersection of 1st St SW and Independence Ave). Ticket distribution begins at 09:00 daily. Oversized backpacks and bags are forbidden in the Capitol, as are bottles, cans or any liquids. Tours visit the dramatic Rotunda (with a view of the dome from the inside), Statuary Hall and the old Supreme Court chamber. Docents are knowledgeable. The tour ends downstairs in the Crypt, which has some exhibits on the Capitol's history.

Construction on the United States Capitol Visitor Center has taken longer than expected - original estimates had the project completing in 2005 - but unforeseen development hurdles have pushed the anticipated opening date to spring 2007. It will provide tourists with a variety of amenities, including an exhibition gallery, cafeteria and gift shops. Oh, and next time it starts to rain you can seek shelter from the storm here as well (the website proclaims it will 'provide visitors shelter from the unpredictable DC weather').