Sushi Taro

The argument over best sushi in town comes down to this place and Makoto. In some ways, the issue boils down to aesthetics and service – both kitchens seem to (rightly) obsess over serving the finest, freshest fish possible arranged with beautiful sides and garnishes, presented with that attention to detail where the Japanese exist in a league of their own. A quivering bit of fatty tuna comes with a side of wasabi freshly grated from one long stem of Japanese horseradish into slivers of nose-tingling happiness. The tastes have almost mathematical layers of complexity, yet this intricacy is arrived at from the seemingly simple combination of a few fresh ingredients. The look and feel of the place is far more contemporary Japanese than Makoto, which looks like any Tokyo fish stand, and service is much more American. It comes down to a modernity vibe versus tradition, because at either joint you’re going to eat very, very well.