Citronelle

Citronelle regularly lurks near the very top of every Washington best restaurant list ever compiled. Big name Michel Richard started this show, a split-level study in the most creative twists tweakable on the American palate, yet grounded in French classicism. Part of what makes dining here so special is the emphasis on fun over formality. The cooks seem to laugh through their creations, such as salmon in a chicken (?!) jus, or the famous short ribs, braised for three days, then pan-seared (?!?) into something…well, medium-rare and amazing. This is the silly envelope’s edge of what can be done in DC cuisine; if you’re a visiting foodie, this should go on your ‘can’t-miss’ list.