French restaurants in Washington, DC
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A
Bistro Bis
Jeff Buben is the chef behind the nouveau Southern fare at Vidalia, and he takes a Southern approach – big portions and rich flavors – to the menu at Bis. The combination works; there’s a rustic affability between classical Southern American and French cuisine, and the two seemingly disparate cultures find delicious common ground in this warm dining room. Concrete examples? Try the crisp frisee salad accompanied by big, sweet sides of applewood bacon, or a smoky duck confit offset by tarty sweet kisses from big cherries. Bistro Bis opens for breakfast, one of the few restaurants in its class to do so, making it the perfect spot to squeeze in a gourmet omelet and glass of …
reviewed
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B
Montmartre
One of the better pure French spots in town, Montmartre is ensconced in a warm, neighborly location cluttered in a mamman’s dining room kinda way, complimented by great wines and some very fine steak, served bloody and yummy. This is more of a neighborhood spot than a political dinner date, which adds to the feeling of cozy authenticity. The homemade pâté is silky and rich, deserts are delightful, and all in all this is a place French expats take their friends to give them a taste of home – the praise doesn’t come much higher than that.
reviewed
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Adour
Alain Ducasse is one of those celebrity chef names whispered in hushed tones of reverence (or screamed through a gold bullhorn of marketing exuberance, if you do PR for Adour). People talk about Adour, Ducasse’s first Washington, DC outpost, based in the St Regis Washington hotel, in more down-to-earth terms: good. Very good. Really good. Great? That’s getting there. Admittedly, this restaurant has a big name to live up to, and our experience is limited by its newness – but we expect great things. The menu changes with the season, but in general it pays homage to the richest traditions of French cuisine and the universal palette of a discerning foodie (a summer dish of …
reviewed
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D
Westend Bistro
There’s some intimidating talent behind Westend’s kitchen: the restaurant was founded by Eric Ripert, who has a small constellation of Michelin stars under his belt, and the chef de cuisine is Joe Palma, who has come up through some of the best kitchens in DC and New York, including Citronelle and Le Bernardin. Those sort of names attract some gushing hype, attention which is pretty justified in this gem of wood and warm tones. The French-American menu is a mix of rich haute cuisine and a playful wink; you can snack on truffled popcorn at the bar, then enjoy a fish burger dressed with a delicate saffron aioli that hits like a delicious whisper – and at $16, that burger is…
reviewed
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E
Bistrot du Coin
How do you know if a French bistro is the real thing? The decor? Du Coin does up its dining rooms with a lovely tricolour spread come Bastille Day. Resistance to smoking bans? Du Coin held the line longer than any DC restaurant we know of. But really, it’s the food, and this is still our favorite spot for roll-up-your-sleeves, working-class French fare: steak frites, moules, cassoulet and the like. Not because it’s necessarily the best (although it’s quite good), but because the atmosphere feels plucked out of Orwell’s Down and Out descriptions of Paris, the clientele is a fun mix of Dupont yuppies and nostalgic Euros and the prices are very reasonable. Nous t’aim…
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Citronelle
Citronelle regularly lurks near the very top of every Washington best restaurant list ever compiled. Big name Michel Richard started this show, a split-level study in the most creative twists tweakable on the American palate, yet grounded in French classicism. Part of what makes dining here so special is the emphasis on fun over formality. The cooks seem to laugh through their creations, such as salmon in a chicken (?!) jus, or the famous short ribs, braised for three days, then pan-seared (?!?) into something…well, medium-rare and amazing. This is the silly envelope’s edge of what can be done in DC cuisine; if you’re a visiting foodie, this should go on your ‘can’t-miss’…
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Marcel’s
The trick with French cuisine is keeping true to the classics while adding the right edge of modern embellishment. Marcel’s has this tricky formula down. Old school, fill-you-up-by-a-fire fare like pork belly and turbot with peas is hearty and thick, inducing pleasant drowsiness and a satisfied sense of stuffed. But the sprucing on the side – quail egg and cornichons, or the miso that accompanies the Alaskan cod – is just understated enough to ratchet the dining experience into a level approaching, and even dipping into, greatness. A classy touch: Marcel’s offers a complimentary limousine service to the Kennedy Center, so this is an ideal spot for pre-theater dining.…
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Café du Parc
Du Parc is one of the best bistros in town, a place for French fare devoid of embellishment but ripping in honest, strong flavors and deceptively simple preparation. The mussels and beef tartar may be the best in the city, which would be reason enough to visit, but the calf liver, kissed perfectly by the pan and a drizzle of shallots, olive-crusted local rockfish and crisp shavings of pork belly make us want to pitch a tent on the terrace. Which is a good spot for outdoor dining, by the way. Breakfast here is lovely – a nice blend of American and Continental dishes – and presents the opportunity for politico spotting.
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La Chaumiere
There’s artists and there’s craftsmen, and La Chaumiere’s kitchen seems to fall into the second category. This isn’t a bad thing; there’s no fooling around with funny envelope pushing here, just very good classical French food prepared in an intimate dining room that screams ‘expensive date.’ This is hearty, stick-to-your-bones stuff straight from the terroir – duck breast, saddle of rabbit, calf brains – things that are long- and slow-braised with love. Screw art. We’ll take the loving work of these craftsmen any day.
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J
Circle Bistro
When it comes to intimate French dining, the Circle ups the romance level, brings the price point down a notch and presents a menu that’s solid if not particularly inspiring. This is fine dining with American ingredients, and while you may not be surprised by dishes such as trout with artichoke hearts or a squid-ink pasta (such things seem de rigeur of late), that doesn’t mean you won’t be delighted by them – the food is, simply, quite good. The service is generally even better, which adds to the appeal of using this spot for a date night.
reviewed
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Petits Plats
This petite French bistro fits a warm, welcoming atmosphere into its little rooms. The traditional menu gets high marks for delicious appetizers, salads, seafood and desserts. But this place is so charming you might not care what you eat, so long as the waiter continues to pour your wine. The artichoke soup with scallops is a winner, as is the seafood-packed bouillabaisse with its smooth, garlicky punch.
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