West of Lajitas, Rte 170 hugs the Rio Grande through some of the most spectacular and remote scenery in Big Bend country. This river road takes you up and down through a rugged landscape of low desert arroyos, sweeping vistas and stony mountains - at one point there's a 15% grade, the maximum allowable. Keep going past Presidio (50 miles, 1½ hours) and 35 miles west, just past Ruidoso, and you'll come to the turnoff for Chinati Hot Springs. Locals love the isolation of the outdoor tubs, campgrounds (campsites $15, bathing included) and cabins ($75 to $115).