Some like it hot: green chile tour of New Mexico

Jul 20, 2010 6:41:34 AM

Jennifer Denniston
Lonely Planet Author

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New Mexicans love their chile. Welcome signs on the interstates feature huge red and green chiles, red ristras hang from adobe homes, and even McDonalds offers green chile on its burgers.

To fully appreciate New Mexican green chile, visit in the late summer or fall, when acres upon acres of chile fields throughout the state begin to ripen and farmers hand-pick the fragile pods before they turn red. This fiery green trail of chile hot spots takes you to local favorites.

For a tasty cup of java and the hottest green in Albuquerque, head to the decidedly crunchy Java Joe’s, hidden in a residential neighborhood off old Route 66 - the chile on its chicken burrito packs more punch than a triple espresso.

If you still haven’t found your idea of chile perfection, consider cruising about an hour south on I-25 to blink-and-you-miss-it San Antonio. Here, the dark lil’ Owl Bar serves up no-frills chile that’s the subject of statewide debate. Some folks drive miles for its green-chile cheeseburger, while others gripe that the reputation is undeserved. The best in New Mexico? You decide.

In Albuquerque, folks head to Wagner’s Farm, a seasonal farm stand that sells produce grown in their fields throughout Corrales. They bring their coolers or garbage bags, select a bushel for roasting at the cylinder roasters on site, and drag home bags of the blackened pods. Enjoy a fresh-made peach turnover, watch ‘em roast the chiles, and pick up a gallon of apple cider.

If you’re like most visitors to New Mexico, you’ll hesitate to buy any chiles because, to the average cook, they’re mysteriously alien. No worries. Swing by Santa Fe train depot to pick up some extra-hot green at the year-round Saturday and Tuesday morning farmers market, and take an afternoon class at the Santa Fe School of Cooking. Classes are offered just about daily, and they have an excellent collection of Southwest cookbooks and green chile products.

From Santa Fe, it’s an easy hour and a half drive along the Rio Grande River to Taos. Pedestrian-friendly downtown Taos boasts excellent art galleries and fantastic hiking trails wind through the aspen and ponderosa of the surrounding mountains. For lunch, stop at riverside Embudo Station for a green-chile stew with a kick. At the other end of the day, go for a pint of green-chile beer and a green-chile smothered burrito at Eske’s Brew Pub & Eatery. The vegetarian chile, with huge chunks of carrots, zucchini and other goodies, is unusual even in this vegetarian-friendly town, and just the smell of the beer is ecstasy to a green-chile addict.

Hungry for more? Snag the free download of the Green Chile Adventure from our upcoming title USA’s Best Trips: 99 Themed Itineraries Across America (available September 2010)

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Comments

27 August 2009 2:22AM adobenido Report this comment
When I was a child on the east Coast, the smell of leaves burning in the Fall was imprinted on my mind. Now, after 30+ years in New Mexico the imprint of Fall is the fantastic smell of green chili roasting. I doesn't get much better than that! Thanks for the write up on NM...Official State Question...Red or Green?
27 August 2009 2:21PM janeyo Report this comment
Oh I envy you! That sounds like such a distinctive, evocative smell! I live in Australia so no such tradition - the nearest is a serve of poppers and imported habanero sauce! Thanks for the gorgeous image.
24 July 2010 2:21PM environmentology_42 Report this comment
I find it mind-boggling that there is an article on New Mexico chile that does not mention Hatch or Chimayo, so here's an addition:
Hatch in the southern part of the state near Las Cruces is the "Chile Capital of the World" where most of the green chile in the state is farmed and home of the "Chile Festival" every Labor day weekend.
Chimayo is more in the area the article mentions (it's between Santa Fe and Taos on the high road) and is a red chile lovers paradise. They have heirloom chile from 300 year old seed stock. Their red chile is AMAZING!!!
30 July 2010 9:43PM renegadebadger Report this comment
That sauce on the Owl Bar cheeseburger looks amazing. Is it like a roasted green chile salsa? With lime, onion, garlic, maybe?
4 August 2010 10:12PM lunacita Report this comment
Yes do venture south to Hatch, the heart of chili country, and beyond to Las Cruces to add Stahmann's pecans in a multitude of confections to your menu! Take in as much of the mountains and desert outdoors as you can, White Sands and Carlsbad Caverns too. Mmmm, chilis, roast your own while sipping a beer or margarita if you get a chance!
7 September 2010 5:47PM blakedayton Report this comment
wow! It makes me wanna visit New Mexico next year. :) I'm a chili fan ever since I was a kid. Gotta say I'm ready for a chili challenge!wuhooo!
7 September 2010 5:48PM blakedayton Report this comment
wow! It makes me wanna visit New Mexico next year. :) I'm a chili fan ever since I was a kid. Gotta say I'm ready for a chili challenge!wuhooo!