An intimate trattoria in the heart of the Village, this is (a refreshingly affordable) part of Mario Batali’s empire, a pizza palace where thin pizzas are cooked on flat iron griddles till they crackle perfectly. They come topped with items far beyond your standard pizza joint – fennel, goat cheese, egg, fresh chilies, capers, the best fresh mozzarella – and sauce that has the perfect balance of smoky and sweet.

Pasta dishes (for just nine bucks!) veer toward the exotic, like penne with hazelnuts and butternut squash, spaghetti with zucchini, chilies and mint, and rigatoni with sausage and black Tuscan kale. And don’t even think of leaving without trying the house-made gelato.